Wine with Leslie: New Zealand wines that mum would love for Mother's Day
Wine-tasting on Waiheke Island, Auckland. New Zealand is a small producer in world terms but their impact on the wine world has been huge.
Tomorrow is Mother’s Day and if I was to pick any wine to please a random Irish Mammy I think I would choose New Zealand. New Zealand has been on my mind a lot of late: in part because they seem to be about the only country that has competently dealt with Covid thanks largely to their smart, competent and compassionate Prime Minister — who wouldn’t want Jacinda Ardern as their leader (or in fact their mammy!).
The other reason is that a bunch of wine samples arrived to my door in compensation for the cancellation of the annual New Zealand Wine Fair. I have selflessly worked my way through them and I was struck again and again by how consistent the wines are at all price levels. New Zealand is a small producer in world terms but they produce around 1% of the world’s wine — their impact on the wine world has been huge. Almost 90% of their wine is exported and that consistency has been key to their success.
Sauvignon likes a cool climate and the breezy and cool area at the northern tip of the South Island (Marlborough) is ideally suited to bring out Sauvignon’s zing and freshness. Every similarly cool region in the world has tried to copy the style but none have come close.
Pinot Noir is the other success story from New Zealand even if it lags a long way behind in sales terms. Pinot Noir represents more than 70% of the red grapes grown in the country (Sauvignon is around 75% of white) and once again the country's cool climate mixed with bright sunshibne has been a key factor. Syrah from around Hawkes Bay is worth a look as are some of the Cabernet and Merlot blends. But, in third place for quality New Zealand wines I would have Chardonnay vying with Hawkes Bay Syrah. Chardonnay is harder for growers to sell than Sauvignon so there are not as many around but it is always worth a chance. I recently drank a 2013 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay and it was delicious — elegant and complex with creamy pear fruits. Watch also for Riesling, Albariño and Pinot Gris.
My favourite Pinot Noirs are often from Central Otago which has sunny days and very cool nights and produces big fruity wines that still retain some earthy complexity. Sam Neil’s Two Paddocks is excellent and the wines of Felton Road (James Nicholson) are outstanding. Marlborough Pinot Noir seems to be better every year however and is often easier on the pocket.
Stockists: SuperValu, Molloys.ie, widely available in multiples.
Oyster Bay is partly responsible for the popularity of New Zealand Sauvignon here — and the 2020 is as crispy and punchy as usual. I hadn’t tried their Pinot Noir in a while and I was pleased to find bright cherry and spice notes with clove and soft plum fruits on the palate. The clove note was almost overpowering but should make this an interesting match for spicy food.
Stockist: Winesoftheworld.ie
The previous vintage of this sold out in jig time and Barry & Fitzwilliam have a relatively small allocation of the 2020 vintage: the 2021 vintage will be on the shelves later this year. This is mostly Sauvignon with just a touch of Merlot added for colour — aromas of gooseberry and apple, fruity and fresh with a green apple finish and a touch of tropical fruits.
Stockists: Drinkstore.ie, World Wide Wines, WineOnline.ie
Wither Hills has always been a reliably crisp and fruity example of New Zealand Sauvignon and should be easy to find. The 2020 has bright lime fruits mixed with zingy gooseberry and citrus which both follow on to the palate. Wither Hills Pinot is also packed with soft cherry fruit and the winery makes Clocktower Sauvignon and Pinot Noir for M&S and the bargain Two Tracks Sauvignon Blanc for SuperValu.
Stockists: 64 Wine, World Wide Wines, The Corkscrew Donnybrook Fair, La Touche Wines; D-Six wines.
Waipara Valley is a hilly-sheltered region around 40 miles up the coast from Christchurch. Perhaps better known for Riesling and aromatic whites. Waipara Pinot Noir is also highly rated however and this has big ripe red fruit aromas streaked through with earthy tones — weighty and ripe with mouth-filling cherry and red plum fruit flavours and a morello cherry finish.
Stockists: Dunnes Stores, Wineonline.ie, Kellys, Dwans, Joyces.
Nautilus is a small family owned estate in Marlborough that I’ve always rated highly. Their Pinot Noir is silky and creamy but unfortunately rarely found in the off-trade - their Pinot Gris and Sauvignon are benchmark and easy to find. The 2020 has fine intensity and ripeness with a minerally green apple and citrus kick, green apple acidity and lingering lemon zest.
Stockists: O’Briens stores nationwide
Pinot Noirs from Central Otago near Queenstown on the South Island (among the world’s most southerly) are almost always interesting but can be expensive. This however is on special offer from O’Briens this month (normally €26), and has raspberry and herb-tinged strawberry fruits, lingering elegant cherry plus some earthy tones on the palate, and good complexity for the price.
Stockists: Celtic Whiskey Shop and via Stillgarden’s online shop
Stillgarden Distillery is a Dublin based independent distillery and has been bringing lots of creativity to the Irish Spirits over the last year. Their Christmas Gin tasted of liquid plum pudding and my experience of their products so far has only been positive.
The O’Maro Amaro is (they believe) the first Irish Amaro — so perfect for adding to a Negroni and other bitter cocktails or to serve as a digestif/aperitif. Made with orange peel, orris, raspberries, tonka and rhubarb, this has floral, herbal and dried fruit aromas, creamy and sweet-bitter on the palate with the cinnamon-chocolate tonka bean notes and a bitter herb finish.
