Wine with Leslie: European wine growers are being hit by drought

It is rare for vineyards to catch fire, in fact they act as fire breaks thanks to the gaps between the vines and the lack of combustible material.

With the world burning (literally and metaphorically), what are the best wines to drink? While Ireland is basking in one of its best summers in years, spare a thought for French and Spanish wine growers who are battling severe drought and encroaching wildfires.

Despite what you may have seen in the Keanu Reeves movie A Walk in the Clouds, it is rare for vineyards to catch fire, in fact they act as fire breaks thanks to the gaps between the vines and the lack of combustible material. However, smoke taint caused by nearby fires will affect grape quality.

The fires in South West France near Bordeaux have garnered a lot of headlines but the real problem facing Bordeaux vignerons is drought. The fires are not near the vines. Drought causes enormous stress to vines and they can shut down, causing the grapes to shrivel and produce little or no juice. The same problem is happening in Burgundy, which has also had hailstones the size of ping-pong balls in mid July, which damaged vines in Marsannay, the Chalonnaise (Rully, Givry etc.) and the Mâcon. Vignerons across France are pessimistic about the 2026 harvest, which is expected to be early and small, everyone is praying for rain. Elsewhere, fire severely damaged vines in Sierras de Gredos near Madrid. Regions such as Rioja and Ribera are unaffected. Spain’s vineyards are better suited to dealing with heat.

So, to return to my question above on what to drink while the world burns, this summer I have been drinking mostly rosé and textured whites such as chardonnay and pecorino, not to mention the occasional Prosecco Spritz made with Campari, Sarti Rosa, Richmount Elderflower Liqueur or Limoncello. Here’s three recent wines we loved outdoors.

La Vielle Ferme Rose, Rhône, France, €9.50-12

La Vielle Ferme is owned by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and you have likely tasted the red Vielle Ferme, which I remember buying as long ago as the early 1990s.

The rosé is fun and great value, under a tenner if you use your Club Card. Pale pink with some orange flecks, strawberries, raspberries and a touch of citrus, fruity and textured but with pleasing texture and a citrusy freshness.

• Tesco

De Loach Heritage Collection Chardonnay, California, €26-27

In warm weather I often find textured whites more interesting than light sauvignons or rieslings, I drink less and they match seafood so well.

This has vanilla and ripe melon aromas, a lively fruit-focused palate and is textured and substantial, not unlike a decent Burgundy. I also recommend the chardonnays from Jordan and Catena or maybe seek out a decent Macon Villages

• JJ O’Driscolls; 1601; Fitzgeralds; Worldwide Wines; The Old Barracks; Higgins; Vintry; WineOnine.ie

Tayu 1865 Pinot Noir, Malleco Valley 2024,Patagonia, Chile, €19.95

San Pedro/1865 wines have teamed up with indigenous families in cool climate Patagonia leading to significant investment in their communities.

Cherry, pomegranate and red berry aromas, a ripe fruit-focused palate but with a pleasing savoury richness and good grip and freshness on the finish. Who says Pinot has to come from Burgundy?

Serve cool.

• O’Briens; obrienswine.ie

Lough Gill Lost Armada West Coast IPA; 5% ABV, 440ml, €3.40

Lough Gill Brewery and visitor centre opened in July 2026 with tours, wood-fired pizza and excellent beers to try. Independent and family-run since 2016, I’ve yet to taste a boring Lough Gill beer.

This classic West Coast IPA is packed with bright tropical fruit aromas and flavours balanced by oodles of new world hops to give a bone dry refreshing finish.

• Foley’s Sligo; Bradley’s; Matsons; Molloys; McHugh’s, craftcentral.ie; loughgill.com