Wine with Leslie: Would you opt for floral aromas or dark berries with coffee and chocolate?
Grapes on the vine, along the Ribera del Duero Wine Route in Spain
Springtime is upon us, days are longer and I’m starting to see pictures of baby lambs on my Twitter timeline. My phone also told me that just a couple of years ago I was in Northern Spain visiting Ribera del Duero.
I love Northern Spain and was due to be on holidays there last summer — hopefully next year instead now. There are more than a dozen interesting wine regions in this part of the world and a fascinating round trip would be to drive west from Rioja to Ribera del Duero and then to Cigales then Rueda, Toro and then into Galicia for Monterrei. You would then travel along the River Miño west to Rias Baixas and then back inland to Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras before heading back into Castille to visit Bierzo and some of the good Tierra de Léon vineyards and then south to Castille La Mancha.
Mention Spanish white wine to anyone in Ireland and they are likely to immediately focus on Albariño — unsurprising given that we are the fifth biggest market worldwide for the Albariño wines of Rias Baixas. I adore Albariño and mention it frequently, but this week I want to draw your attention to two other Spanish Whites from North-Western Spain.
Godello is also from Galicia but from the inland regions of Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras and Bierzo in Castille. Godello has a similar weight to Albariño but less of the peach aromas (it is more lemon curd and apricot-scented), a slightly denser texture and a steely mineral streak running through it and a touch less acidity. The best Godello I’ve tasted are probably the wines of Rafael Palacios which can be sourced from SIYPS.com and found in the likes of World Wide Wines, 64 Wine and Green Man Wines.
Spain’s biggest selling white wine is not Albariño but creamy citrus and bitter lemon tinged Verdejo from Rueda and it too is a must-taste (and much easier to find than Godello). For reds in North West Spain you need to explore the joys of Mencía — a grape that used to produce rather thin light wines but thanks to careful vine management and lower yields it now produces floral, fruit-driven wines with a stony streak — exactly the kind of wine I turn to in Spring: brighter days make me crave juicy fruits a little more. All the wines below are from North-Western Spain and making their debut.
Stockists: Spar, Eurospar, Londis, Mace
You won’t find many wines from Ribera del Duero for a tenner given its fame these days. This is very young Tempranillo so pours a bright vibrant purple with blueberry and blackberry aromas, fruity and ripe on the palate with lively textured dark fruits and good length. If you spend a bit more on the likes of Pesquera you will see just why this region now rivals Rioja for the title of Spain's best reds.
Stockists: Ardkeen Stores - ardkeen.ie, Nolans Clontarf, winesoftheworld.ie
From the small hilly region of Monterrei which is inland in Southern Galicia bordering on Castille. Tropical aromas with confit pears and honeysuckle, textured and layered on the palate with citrus mixed through with round creamy (lees-influenced) fruits, and a sleek stony minerality cutting through it all. Solid complexity for a very fair price.
Stockists: Next Door Kilkee and via winesoftheworld.ie
Named for the four bear paw-prints found in their mountain vineyard — the estate has since worked on preserving the local wild brown bear habitat. Mencía-based wines are always worth seeking out at all price levels. This pours a rich purple colour with black cherry aromas and hints of violets and spice — luscious plum, cherry and blackberry fruits, rounded and ripe.
Stockists: Cinnamon Cottage Cork, Fallon & Byrne, Granary Food Store Midleton, wineonline.ie
From vineyards just outside Segovia the historic Spanish city famous for its spectacular 98AD aqueduct. Grown at altitude (800-930m), on sandy soils, the grapes are macerated prior to fermentation in stainless steel and left on their lees to add complexity. Floral peach and citrus aromas, textured and lively on the palate with soft pulpy fruit flavours mixed with citrus freshness.
Stockists: Mitchell & Son mitchellandson.com
The ‘Three Pillars’ of this estate are the three brothers who manage it on the high chilly plains just south of Vallodolid (one of the best Tapas cities in Spain). Floral and creamy citrus aromas with a touch of preserved lemon, rounded and full on the palate with layers of peach and grapefruit freshness and a pleasing lemon kick on the finish.
Stockists: Mannings Emporium, Red Nose Clonmel, Wine Centre, Malt House, Redmonds, Jus de Vine, On The Grapevine, 64 Wines 64wine.ie
From the Bibei valley in the most easterly sub-region of Ribeira Sacra on north-facing slopes. Wild yeast fermentation in large wooden vats with malo-lactic and ageing in 300-litre barrels. Black raspberry and dark cherry aromas with coffee and chocolate, creamy richly layered red and black fruits on the palate with fine intensity and depth.
Stockists: Bradleys, Castle Tralee, Ardkeen - Ardkeen.ie, Drinkstore.ie
Jiant is based in that fine craft brewing (and cannabis heartland) State of Colorado. Jiant began with a kombucha made from green tea, honey and water that is fermented in small batches and then sweetened with organic cane sugar and re-fermented to create this refreshing, zingy drink perfect for brighter evenings and sunnier days.
The ‘Original’ Passionfruit & Elderflower has pleasing tropical fruit and spiky herbal notes but the ‘Hicamaya’ Grapefruit and Rosehip is my favourite. This pours a bright red-pink colour with distinct hibiscus, rose petal and cherry scents — classic Kombucha sour fruit flavours on the palate followed by red fruits, dark berries and a morello cherry finish.
