Joe McNamee: Nothing tastes better than a meal shared

Blackrock Village Street Feast, one of about 1,400 such events held annually in Ireland. Picture: Manu Bhargava

Do you dip chips or French fries into mayo or ketchup? Perhaps you are an old-school salt and vinegar die-hard? What other condiments do you favour to pimp up plates? Are you dousing breakfast eggs with hot sauce, turning a familiar comfort blanket into an infinitely more racy pleasure?

I am a longtime fan of dried Middle Eastern condiments. Dukkah is a blend of toasted nuts, sesame seeds, coriander, and cumin, served at breakfast with fresh bread to dip first in olive oil and then in dukkah, though I love it with scrambled eggs.

Za’atar, a cousin condiment central to Palestinian cuisine, is made from dried wild thyme, toasted sesame seeds, sumac, and salt. For a spell, I lost the run of myself, showering it on everything, cooked or raw; earthy, minty thyme and fruity, tangy sumac adding vibrant new dimensions to familiar dishes, from stews to grilled fish and even raw salads.

I prefer good cheese unadorned, but cheeseboards inevitably include crackers, chutneys, relishes, and even fruit and nuts, all adding their special something. Sometimes condiments are non-negotiable.

Sushi without soy sauce might even border on bland. It is the quintessential essence of umami that adds profound depths of flavour without ever overwhelming sushi’s innate simplicity. The Japanese have form in this regard. Katsuobushi is dried flakes of smoked, fermented tuna that melt into hot food. Sprinkling it over a simple bowl of noodles, butter, and soy, turns it into a Michelin-starred mouthful.

But ask me for my favourite seasoning of all, and I will reply without hesitation: My favourite food seasoning is people. Eating with others always makes food more enjoyable.

By the time you read this, Cork on a Fork’s flagship Long Table Dinner will have drawn to another successful conclusion. I marvelled at the quality of food and service at last year’s iteration though rain forcing a move indoors sapped some of that giddy magic of communal al fresco dining with a bunch of strangers in the middle of the street. And you’d be surprised how often strangers arise from a table as new found friends. It’s what food does so well, a universal language crossing cultural divides, finding common ground for shared conversation, slowly building trust. The primal biological necessity of fuelling our bodies evolves into a powerful social ritual, releasing endorphins, creating emotional bonds and a sense of community.

Never underestimate the unifying power of food. In 2010, Sam Bishop and several likeminded souls founded Street Feast, a small community-driven initiative in Dublin and Wicklow to get to know your neighbours over food.

It has run every May ever since and has grown into a truly national event, Street Feast providing free starter packs, including invitations, posters, and bunting, to get the ball rolling. This year, there were 1,402 Street Feasts in Ireland with 130,386 neighbours attending. A post-event survey showed 76-77% of attendees — divided almost equally between rural and urban — had made plans for more community projects and aimed to help out more in their area, and 97% said they would host again.

Bishop’s work with Street Feast evolved into The Neighbourhood Network, a community-building charity aiming to build resilient neighbourhoods throughout Ireland, promoting social inclusion and reducing loneliness while empowering locals to connect and host community events in their own neighbourhoods, and now works with property developers throughout Ireland to promote community building.

Though unconnected, the Blackpool Block Party (August 23), facilitated by Cork Community Artlink (corkcommunityartlink.com), mines a similar rich vein to take over the streets of the northside city suburb for a family-friendly carnival of live music, street performers, art, crafts, and practical workshops, including a repair cafe. Like all good street parties, food is at the heart of it.

The Tiger Balm Club will cook up a free meal using produce donated by Cork’s community gardens, and there will also be salads, freshly baked breads, pickles, homemade sauces, and an afternoon tea party. Much of what is on offer will be produced by local residents and though home cooks and bakers may not have the culinary chops of the pro chefs, I can’t help thinking the “seasoning” of people and community will make for some truly delicious eating.

Table Talk

The Waterford Harvest Festival (Sept 4-6) is fast becoming a fixture on the Irish culinary calendar, its celebration of Deise dining and produce growing bigger each year. Highlights this year include Disco Brunch on the Water, a collab between Momo Restaurant and Get Down Edits, a two-hour scenic cruise along the Suir with full bar facilities. The Global Taste Trail is a showcase for the diversity of international cuisines now locally available in the city taking in the flavours of India, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Brazil and finally, Italy, specifically, Rome. It’s back on the boat again, this time for a more

refined Elegant Afternoon Tea Experience, with pastry chef Tom Phelan from Michelin-starred The Lady Helen restaurant at Mount Juliet Estate. And, of course, not forgetting the Harvest Festival Producers’ Market, always a high point.

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Back across the border into East Cork for fEastCork food festival (September 1-6) with events taking place throughout the week all culminating in the takeover of Midleton’s main street and market green area for a street food extravaganza. Also check out the Feast Farm to Fork Dinner at Yellow Belly Farm (September 5).

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Today's Special

Wexford Home Preserves’ Blackcurrant Jam (€3.80)

In its heyday, the massive fruit production in the South East, most especially Wexford, saw an inordinate amount of blackcurrants grown for Ribena and the Chivers jam company. These days production may have declined but it has equally rarified into infinitely more appealing offerings, most especially Wexford Home Preserves’ Blackcurrant Jam (€3.80), a serial winner of the prestigious and exclusive three stars at the British Great Taste Awards. Sublimely balanced, a fruit-forward acidity soars high on the palate, underpinned by an almost creamy, rich sweetness and the berries retain a delightful textural bite.

A spoonful in yogurt or rice pudding straight from the oven is beyond divine.

• wexfordpreserves.ie