Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant review: Ten years in, Bastible balances precision and pleasure
S Restaurant review: Ten years in, Bastible balances precision and pleasure
Even brilliant restaurants fail sometimes, so when I realised Bastible was 10 years old this past November I decided it was worth a revisit.

Fri, 12 Dec, 2025

Restaurant review: New team breathes life into Kenmare’s Park Hotel
S Restaurant review: New team breathes life into Kenmare’s Park Hotel
"They still treasure the venerable old building and that aforementioned hospitality, but the premises has been streamlined."

Sun, 07 Dec, 2025

Restaurant review: I am excited to see what Cairo 2 Cork food truck does next with its menu
S Restaurant review: I am excited to see what Cairo 2 Cork food truck does next with its menu
I first heard of the Cairo 2 Cork food truck upon learning the Egyptian ambassador to Ireland had written to its chef-proprietor Nivene Sadick to congratulate her on being the first to serve Egyptian food in Ireland.

Fri, 21 Nov, 2025

Restaurant review: Park yourself at Dublin's Amy Austin for a fine meal — sans wheels
S Restaurant review: Park yourself at Dublin's Amy Austin for a fine meal — sans wheels
"Jerk marinade ‘comote’ (€16), aka sweet potato, was also rather diminutive but this time we didn’t mind as it was outstanding — the dish of the evening for me."

Fri, 14 Nov, 2025

Restaurant review: Washington Street's latest eatery brings the Soul to a busy Cork thoroughfare
S Restaurant review: Washington Street's latest eatery brings the Soul to a busy Cork thoroughfare
"As he did in the iconic Liberty pub — just around the corner — with Resistance, a speakeasy cocktail bar on the first floor, Soul proprietor Stephen O’Sullivan has once again created a canny visual concept on a tight budget."

Sun, 09 Nov, 2025

Restaurant review: Kaldero's Filipino focus brings charm and flavour to Dublin 2
S Restaurant review: Kaldero's Filipino focus brings charm and flavour to Dublin 2
You will find some Irish ingredients, but this is not fusion food, simply food that “reflects where we come from and where we are now”.

Sun, 02 Nov, 2025

Restaurant review: Kerry's 505 is near enough the best meal I’ve eaten this year
S Restaurant review: Kerry's 505 is near enough the best meal I’ve eaten this year
'One of the smartest moves I’ve made all year was to wangle a booking for newly-opened 505 on the Saturday night of the Dingle Food Festival and Blas na hÉireann awards'

Sun, 26 Oct, 2025

Restaurant review: Table 45 is a Dublin home away from South American home
S Restaurant review: Table 45 is a Dublin home away from South American home
"Hogan Place is between Fenian Street and Grand Canal St Lr, just around the corner from Holles St. so right in the heart of the Dublin city, yet it still somehow feels like a secret space."

Sun, 19 Oct, 2025

Restaurant review: We wait for our mains for over an hour after ordering at Thompson's
S Restaurant review: We wait for our mains for over an hour after ordering at Thompson's
If steak is your USP, it needs to be top drawer every time out

Fri, 10 Oct, 2025

Restaurant review: This Dublin osteria does nearly everything brilliantly
S Restaurant review: This Dublin osteria does nearly everything brilliantly
"Thanks to the room’s former incarnation as a bank there are high ceilings and parquet floors but the room also has a modern feel with exposed beams, and copper-hued filament bulbs providing a warm glow."

Sun, 05 Oct, 2025

Restaurant review: Cork eatery Mantra has the spice — but more would be nice
S Restaurant review: Cork eatery Mantra has the spice — but more would be nice
"Once home to the pizza restaurant Burnt, where almost everything was coated in black in a rather nihilistic style, the space has now been cleverly redesigned into a vibrant, welcoming room."

Sun, 28 Sep, 2025

Restaurant review: Orwell Road is in safe hands with its impressive chef
S Restaurant review: Orwell Road is in safe hands with its impressive chef
Third time is a charm, much like the others

Sun, 21 Sep, 2025

Restaurant review: Cork's Nosh 19 is a treat for fans of authentic Chinese fare
S Restaurant review: Cork's Nosh 19 is a treat for fans of authentic Chinese fare
"There are ‘safe’ options for fans of ‘Irish Chinese’, and other Asian cuisines are touched on (including a Thai mini-menu) but the heart of the menu is authentic Hong Kong-style Chinese cooking."

Sun, 14 Sep, 2025

Restaurant review: 3 Leaves is a star of Dublin's leafy suburban scene
S Restaurant review: 3 Leaves is a star of Dublin's leafy suburban scene
"The flavours in the mains were slightly less complex than in the starters, so next time I’m doubling down on starters and ordering extra portions of Malabar paratha."

Sun, 07 Sep, 2025

Restaurant review: Ocras is serving up some of the best food at the Marina Market
S Restaurant review: Ocras is serving up some of the best food at the Marina Market
"Kennedy is still tinkering with components of certain dishes, but the overall level of detail and precision is significant, resulting in some truly delicious seafood."

Sun, 31 Aug, 2025

Restaurant review: Get on the waiting list of this cosmic Dublin eatery at lightspeed
S Restaurant review: Get on the waiting list of this cosmic Dublin eatery at lightspeed
"Comet does have a Scandi feel with simple, well-designed tables and chairs and counter seating at the front. The room is low on natural and artificial light which adds an atmospheric touch, but worked less well on a sunny July day than it will next November."

Sun, 24 Aug, 2025

Restaurant review: This is one of Cork’s most enjoyable restaurants
S Restaurant review: This is one of Cork’s most enjoyable restaurants
The people behind Liberty Grill have created a comfortable, welcoming space in their latest restaurant

Tue, 19 Aug, 2025

Restaurant review: No bells or whistles, but Cork's Fingas is a safe haven away from home
S Restaurant review: No bells or whistles, but Cork's Fingas is a safe haven away from home
"The restaurant itself doesn’t scream big budget but a wood-themed approach — floor, bare tables and wall panelling — does a decent job of turning a banal retail unit into a surprisingly pleasant space."

Sat, 16 Aug, 2025

Restaurant review: The Wicklow sun shines on this top-tier gourmet pub grub
S Restaurant review: The Wicklow sun shines on this top-tier gourmet pub grub
"The Pumphouse in Dunlavin is the new name for the Dunlavin Inn, which has recently been taken over by Dunlavin native Liam Brown and his wife and business partner Tara."

Sun, 10 Aug, 2025

Restaurant review: This Kenmare eatery nails the produce, but falls short of precision
S Restaurant review: This Kenmare eatery nails the produce, but falls short of precision
"Some pause for thought when conceiving dishes and then a little more precision in their delivery, and [they] would be guaranteed to nail it every single time."

Sat, 02 Aug, 2025

Restaurant review: This Dublin 6 eatery is building to something luxurious
S Restaurant review: This Dublin 6 eatery is building to something luxurious
Philip Yeung opened Craft in 2016, having previously been head chef in Town Bar and Grill, and Bang. The space is modern and comfortable with a choice of sitting at the front facing Harold’s Cross Rd or a quieter space at the rear of the (relatively) narrow space

Sun, 27 Jul, 2025

Restaurant review: Early days, but good omens for this East Cork bistro and pub
S Restaurant review: Early days, but good omens for this East Cork bistro and pub
"The large open room with lovely views onto the harbour and bay remains intact, but we insist on first sitting out on the tiny terrace by the front door, the better to drink in that glorious vista and an equally glorious pint of stout."

Sat, 19 Jul, 2025

Restaurant review: Familarity and attention to detail makes Dublin's Delahunt a must
S Restaurant review: Familarity and attention to detail makes Dublin's Delahunt a must
"Tables have white marble tops which add to the atmosphere and there are booths, and private dining rooms, bar seating (yes, it too was made from lovingly polished dark wood), and high bar tables which are reserved for walk-ins."

Sun, 13 Jul, 2025

Restaurant review: Midleton's Cush does real food — served to a high standard
S Restaurant review: Midleton's Cush does real food — served to a high standard
This is real food, very good produce cooked to a high standard.

Sun, 06 Jul, 2025

Restaurant review: No airs at Notions, it’s a fun place to dine
S Restaurant review: No airs at Notions, it’s a fun place to dine
Two Pups coffee shop is 10 years old now and still unfailingly appears on any proper list of ‘best cafés’ in Dublin. They also opened in Fairview in 2023, followed by a bakery upstairs in Francis St; the brilliant Bold Boy Bakery, which supplies both cafes.

Sun, 29 Jun, 2025

Restaurant review: Waterford's Mara packs potential to make huge waves
S Restaurant review: Waterford's Mara packs potential to make huge waves
"The vaulting epicurean ambition afoot in Mara is very apparent. It is also remarkable. To paraphrase Churchill, never has so much been cooked by so few for so many."

Sat, 21 Jun, 2025

Restaurant review: Cork cocktail bar Cask now also a great restaurant
S Restaurant review: Cork cocktail bar Cask now also a great restaurant
Food to match classy cocktails at Cask

Sun, 08 Jun, 2025

Restaurant review: Persistence required to book a table here but it will be worth it
S Restaurant review: Persistence required to book a table here but it will be worth it
A magical place that brings food to meet your heart’s desires every 10 minutes

Sat, 31 May, 2025

Restaurant review: Farmgate Lismore is one of my new favourite Irish restaurants
S Restaurant review: Farmgate Lismore is one of my new favourite Irish restaurants
An old school classic reborn anew in wonderful west Waterford.

Sun, 25 May, 2025

Restaurant review: Dining in original carriages from the Orient Express overlooking Lake Corrib
S Restaurant review: Dining in original carriages from the Orient Express overlooking Lake Corrib
The Pullman is only open a couple of months in its new guise and there is oodles of talent and potential

Sat, 17 May, 2025

Restaurant review: This Cork institution is a national treasure in the making
S Restaurant review: This Cork institution is a national treasure in the making
Tonight, it seems plugged directly into the national grid, the room alive with energy of deeply contented diners.

Sun, 11 May, 2025

Restaurant review: This space has somehow maintained a secretive vibe over the years
S Restaurant review: This space has somehow maintained a secretive vibe over the years
This is old school fine dining

Sun, 04 May, 2025

Restaurant review: A fine taste of home for Indian diaspora in Cork
S Restaurant review: A fine taste of home for Indian diaspora in Cork
Tasty authenticity that packs a punch

Sun, 27 Apr, 2025

Restaurant review: I can see why one dish went viral within hours of this place opening
S Restaurant review: I can see why one dish went viral within hours of this place opening
And the cacio e pepe is so well executed that it could calm a Lazio Ultra supporter following a three-nil defeat by Juventas.

Sun, 06 Apr, 2025

Restaurant review: Pizza paradise in Cork at the coolest crossroads in Ireland
S Restaurant review: Pizza paradise in Cork at the coolest crossroads in Ireland
The arrival of Good Hood to St Luke's is a gamechanger

Sun, 30 Mar, 2025

Restaurant review: This French bistro has a menu that's packed with classics
S Restaurant review: This French bistro has a menu that's packed with classics
The head chef seems to have doubled down on their Frenchness to delicious effect

Sat, 22 Mar, 2025

Restaurant review: This new street food spot in Cork's English Market is a must-try
S Restaurant review: This new street food spot in Cork's English Market is a must-try
The fish and chips included some of the finest chips I’ve had in a while

Sun, 16 Mar, 2025

Restaurant review: Hera is another culinary highlight for Dublin's rising Northside
S Restaurant review: Hera is another culinary highlight for Dublin's rising Northside
"Juno was initially a craft beer pub with bar snacks but they have now pivoted to a ‘gastro-pub’ format on one side named Hera (Juno’s Greek counterpart). Gastro-pub is a much abused term in Ireland but one I think Hera can actually use with some legitimacy as behind the stove is chef Joe Smith, formerly of Bastible."

Sun, 09 Mar, 2025

Restaurant review: Perfectly-pitched fare at Tipp's Bishop's Buttery — but at a price
S Restaurant review: Perfectly-pitched fare at Tipp's Bishop's Buttery — but at a price
"Though Cashel is a national historic hotspot, there is something surreal about first sight of the magnificently restored former 18th century bishop’s manor. Palladian architecture, polished to within an inch of its life, suggests the box yew-hedged vibes of Versailles."

Sat, 01 Mar, 2025

Restaurant review: I can't do justice to the diversity of flavours at this southern Indian spot
S Restaurant review: I can't do justice to the diversity of flavours at this southern Indian spot
Andhra Bhavan is named for the legendary canteen in New Delhi which is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and provides inexpensive tasty food to hundreds of Delhiites every day.

Sun, 23 Feb, 2025

Restaurant review: Minuscule Cork eatery scores big on taste
S Restaurant review: Minuscule Cork eatery scores big on taste
"I’ve done plenty of eating on Douglas Street through the decades, especially when I was a resident of the street during the reign of the late, lamented Douglas Hide gastro-pub."

Sat, 15 Feb, 2025

Restaurant review: Ballymaloe is still the big thing in Irish food
Restaurant review: Ballymaloe is still the big thing in Irish food
Ballymaloe House Ballymaloe More, Shanagarry, Co Cork, P25 Y070 Tel: 021 4652531 ballymaloe.

Sun, 09 Feb, 2025

Restaurant review: I can’t think of a better spot for a romantic meal on Valentine’s Day
S Restaurant review: I can’t think of a better spot for a romantic meal on Valentine’s Day
A heart-warming treasure of a place

Sun, 02 Feb, 2025

Restaurant review: This golden hashed-potato is one of the best potato dishes in the nation
S Restaurant review: This golden hashed-potato is one of the best potato dishes in the nation
Etto is still the metric of good taste

Sun, 26 Jan, 2025

Restaurant review: This pizza place has the best base I’ve tasted anywhere
S Restaurant review: This pizza place has the best base I’ve tasted anywhere
He really is king of pizza in Ireland right now, and long may he reign

Sun, 12 Jan, 2025

Restaurant review: Cork's Bayou is a culinary New Orleans carnival, right on MacCurtain Street
S Restaurant review: Cork's Bayou is a culinary New Orleans carnival, right on MacCurtain Street
"Bayou is located in the old City Grill space and promises ‘Southern Comfort Food” with a strong Louisiana influence evident on the menu"

Sat, 04 Jan, 2025

Restaurant review: Press Up's latest Dublin eatery tries to tangle its thinking — but falls short
S Restaurant review: Press Up's latest Dublin eatery tries to tangle its thinking — but falls short
"...a menu designed by committee? Well, that is kind-of what Press Up Group have done with Kaldero, the menu being a mix of Indian, Chinese, and Filipino dishes."

Sat, 28 Dec, 2024

Restaurant Review: Howth's foodie scene harbours a real catch in Mamó
S Restaurant Review: Howth's foodie scene harbours a real catch in Mamó
"Mamó opened in 2019 and was an immediate sensation with rave reviews. I confess I had not managed to visit before this review, but had written about their brilliant covid box for this newspaper."

Sat, 21 Dec, 2024

Restaurant review: Kinsale is so lucky to have a dining experience like Rare
S Restaurant review: Kinsale is so lucky to have a dining experience like Rare
Rare dazzles with culinary treasures

Sun, 15 Dec, 2024

Restaurant review: Newly reopened Coppinger is back with good cocktails and creative food
Restaurant review: Newly reopened Coppinger is back with good cocktails and creative food
Coppinger was open less than a week when I visited and the menu was still evolving

Sat, 10 Aug, 2024

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