Wine with Leslie: Burgundy has become unaffordable, here are three alternatives

Some French vineyards are reporting up to a 80% damage to the vines due to recent hailstorms
Chardonnay and pinot noir from other regions are the obvious suggestions

Chardonnay and pinot noir from other regions are the obvious suggestions

I’ve been thinking about Burgundy again. Thinking about it rather than drinking it because I mostly can’t afford it anymore. And things are not about to change on that front with reports of a major hailstorm hitting Beaune earlier this month causing a “corridor of destruction” (as Wine-Searcher.com put it) from Pernand-Vergelesses north of Beaune to Chassagne-Montrachet in the southern Côte d’Or.

Hailstones in France can be the size of golf balls so damage was severe. Some vineyards are reporting 80% damage to the vines, which are at a delicate point in their development, and expect yields to be severely reduced. Demand will still be there for these wines so prices will, of course, rise.

So what are the alternatives? Well chardonnay and pinot noir from other regions is the obvious suggestion, Alsace, Baden, and the Pfalz are three suggestions, plus of course New Zealand, Chile and other new world regions (I’m not mentioning California as their prices often exceed Burgundy).

For summer whites, however, I have another suggestion, and that is the other Burgundy white grape, the one you never hear about: pinot blanc. Pinot blanc is a mutation of pinot gris which itself is a mutation of pinot noir and was often mistaken for chardonnay in the past. Still permitted but less seen in Burgundy these days, it is in Alsace you will find the best French expressions of the grape as well as in Germany and Austria.

In Alsace, it is sometimes blended with the auxerrois grape (to which it is superior) and makes flavourful, lively wines helped by Alsace’s remarkable climate (less rain than Perpignan). In Germany, you will find oaked versions and also inexpensive, light crisp versions perfect for lunch. I particularly recommend pinot blanc as a midday tipple or for serving with seafood. Three from three different countries to try below.

Hans Baer Weissburgunder, Rheinhessen, Germany, €13.99

Weissburgunder is the German name for pinot blanc, a grape we often overlook. This bargain example is from the left bank of the Rhine near Mainz (just west of Frankfurt).

Floral pear and green apple aromas, a nice bit of texture and a crisp layered palate, a perfect lunch wine. Baer’s riesling and pinot noir are also recommended and at a similar price.

  • JJ O’Driscolls; World Wide Wines; Matsons; Vintry; Independents

Hugel Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France, €22.99

Founded in 1639, the Hugel family have a decent bit of experience. The estate is more famed for their riesling and gewürztraminer, but don’t forget about their pinot blanc and the fragrant Gentil blend.

Their pinot blanc has tropical and white peach aromas, a supple palate with some weight and texture, cutting through the peach fruits is a small streak of crisp acidity. Try with crab claws.

  • JJ O’Driscolls; Whelehans; WineOnline.ie; Pettitts Wexford; Independents;

Judith Beck Weissburgunder, Austria, €22-€23.99

Beck is one of Austria’s best-known and most praised winemakers, farming biodynamically since 2007 and adored by the natural wine set (and anyone else with an open mind).

Aromas of ripe pears, lemon zest and stone fruits, exotic fruits on the palate with a touch of spice balanced by apple fresh acidity. Lees contact and (neutral) oak ageing gives this extra textures. Delicious.

  • L’Atitude 51; Bradleys; 64 Wines; Woodberry; lecaveau.ie

Hope Pineapple & Passion Fruit Sour, 4.7% ABV, 440ml €3.99

Warm, hazy June-July days are perfectly suited to sour beers, a category I rather neglect.

This launched at Bloom; a naturally lactic ferment was infused with whole fruit purée to create a vibrant, bracingly fresh sour perfect for summer.

Aromatic pineapple and tropical-citrus fruit aromas, tangy, zesty and tart on the palate, refreshing and very tasty.

  • Matsons; CarryOut Shannon; McHughs; Jus de Vine; Martins; url=https://CraftCentral.ie]CraftCentral.ie[/url]

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