Wine with Leslie: The wines of Southern Italy are particularly suited to warm weather

I’ve been featuring more whites recently so if you need a few red suggestions this part of Italy also delivers. 

Southern Italy has to be one of the most enticing places on our planet. While I adore Puglia and the Adriatic coast, it is difficult not to immediately think of the western coastline when we think of bellissima Italia.

I just need to mention a few places, and you will think of azure blue seas, delicious seafood, and beautiful views. From the Amalfi coast to the Sorrento peninsula, from islands like Ischia and Capri to the Bay of Naples and of course Sicily, one of my favourite places on earth.

Inevitably, I also think of the fragrant white wines of this part of Italy, wines that are particularly suited to warm weather food like seafood, light pasta dishes, and salads. Northern whites such as pinot grigio, cortese (Gavi), verdicchio, and garganega (Soave) are delicious but they don’t have the same texture and depth as the whites of the south.

I feature three fine examples below, a fiano, grillo, and falanghina, three of the best white grapes in Italy, not just in the south. Also watch for greco which is found in Campania (eg, Greco di Tufo) and in the ankle of Italy, Basilicata. Sicily’s best white is probably catarratto as found in Etna Bianco and other volcanic areas. Also watch for carricante and inzolia and fragrant dry muscat-based whites usually labelled zibibbo, which is the local name for Muscat of Alexandria.

I’ve been featuring more whites recently so if you need a few red suggestions this part of Italy also delivers. Look for frappato, nero d’avola, and nerello mascalese from Sicily; gaglioppo (Ciro), and aglianico from either Campania or Basilicata. These are also reds that you can serve a little cooler, especially frappato and nerello mascalese, the latter being the grape of flinty fresh Etna Rosso; M&S have a fine one at a very fair price.

Colpasso Grillo, Sicily, €10

Grillo is perhaps my favourite Sicilian white grape, floral and fragrant with lemon oil aromas and fleshy textures balanced by freshness.

This grillo is a bargain, floral, white peaches and a touch of tropical fruit on the nose lead to a textured ripe palate. Textured and tangy with dried lemon and apple notes plus fine boned acidity; a fine match for fish, white meats and creamy pasta. Also watch for Zabú and Mandrarossa grillo.

• Dunnes Stores

Villa Raiano Falanghina, Campania, Italy, €17.99

Brand new to O’Briens and reduced from €20 for a limited time.

Falanghina is an ancient variety found around Naples and prized for its texture and fruit, a contender for Italy’s best white variety.

This has tropical fruit aromas mixed with lemon curd and light spice, a rich lemony fresh palate and lingering tangy citrus flavours.

A fine match for spaghetti alle vongole, also try their Finao.

• O’Briens

Mandrarossa ‘Ciaca Bianca’ Fiano, Sicily, €17-18

Fiano probably originates in Campania but is now found throughout the south, especially in Sicily. Always interesting, often intriguing, fiano generally offers flavour, fragrance and complexity. This version has honeysuckle and dried lemon aromas, herbal touches, lingering ripe pear and apple fruits on the palate and a creamy lemon zest finish. Also watch for Terredora (O’Briens) and Pipoli ‘fiano-greco’ (independents).

• Liquor Booth Mallow; 1601; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Drink Store; Wineonline.ie

Dingle Orange & Sea Salt Gin, 40% ABV, 70cl €38

Dingle Gin is multi award winning and a modern classic, and now it has pretty new packaging and an excellent new sister brand in the form of this Orange-Sea Salt edition.

Floral, orange peel aromas mingle with vibrant juniper and herbal notes, a creamy palate, pepper, spice, and lingering tangerines and orange zest on the finish.

Serve with good tonic and a slice of singed orange.

• Independents; SuperValu; Dunnes; Tesco; O’Briens; Widely available.