Darina Allen: Warm Roast Duck with Broccoli, Radishes and Anchovy

THE game season is in full swing and at last it is losing its reputation as a luxury food, eaten only in grand country houses. 

Snipe, wild duck, shoveler, mallard, teal, widgeon, wood pigeon, partridge and woodcock are already in season.

Even if you don’t know a hunter (Marks & Spencer, as well as other supermarkets and farmers markets are beginning to sell game birds) one can experiment, escaping the tyranny of eternal chicken breast, farmed salmon and steak, the seemingly compulsory trinity of offerings on virtually every restaurant menu.