Darina Allen: Rich lamb korma and other Indian recipes I learned when visiting Rajasthan

Some of the savoury selections Darina has brought home from India

Incredible India, it keeps drawing me back year after year, not just for the extraordinarily varied culture and vibrant colours but the haunting mystical music, spicy pungent smells and, of course, the food. India is huge, a subcontinent with a myriad of gods, religions, customs, temples and colourful festivals.

I love the way the cows still wander through the streets with such an air of entitlement even in enormous cities such as Delhi, Mumbai and Calcutta.

Cows are sacred in India, worshipped and revered and are certainly not for eating. Nothing is wasted. Cow manure is shaped in flat frisbee-size patties, sundried and then used for fuel. That may sound gross to us but it is totally sustainable and does not smell at all unpleasant. Beef is not an option on the menu for millions of people, a high percentage of whom are vegetarian. In the towns and villages, people leave out food and water for the cows on their doorsteps believing strongly that they will receive blessings from the gods in return.

This time we went back to Rajasthan, an area over twice the size of Ireland, much of which is semi-arid desert and hilly terrain where a variety of tribes live alongside pastoralists, camel herders, nomads and subsistence farmers. Jodhpur, Jaipur and Udaipur are the tourist hotspots in this area but wonderful as they are, we love to get out of the towns, well off the tourist track and into the rural areas.

We are intrigued by the Raikas way of life, in their white garb and bright red turbans. They move their flocks of camels, sheep and goats from place to place, nibbling sustainably on the trees and the sparse vegetation. Another group moves through the landscape digging up the Prosopis juliflora trees which they then make into charcoal, providing them with a meagre
livelihood and helping to eradicate an invasive species at the same time.

In 1971, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi passed the 26th Amendment Act and abolished the privileges and privy purses of all the princely rulers meaning they no longer recognised any of the princes or chiefs as the ruler. Many of the Rajput families are now converting their often crumbling palaces into heritage hotels or homestays. These are a wonderful experience for the traveller, family run, with an intriguing history, delicious food and famed Rajput hospitality.

We have stayed and returned to many over the years but this time, we found two new places, one called Chanoud Garh, just outside the village of Chanoud in northern Rajasthan (www.chanoudgarh.com). It is a magnificent 300-year-old palace, home to Thakur Ajeet Singhji and his family, descendants of the original Mertia Rajputs. The second was a camp called Sujan Jawai, built in the desert, in the Aravali hills, close to the Jawai Dam. This is a game reserve where leopards roam freely and coexist with the tribes, pastoralists and villagers.

As ever, I was on the lookout for new flavours, cooking techniques and unfamiliar ingredients. At Chanoud Garh I took a cooking class from Swati, sister of the owner. As we walked across one of the ancient courtyards to the demonstration kitchen, a local woman sat cross-legged, cheerfully grinding homegrown chickpeas in an ancient stone quern to make dahl.

In many parts of India, the old world exists along with the 21st-century. Barefoot children have mobile phones and many simple mud dwellings have satellite dishes. At Swati’s class I learned how to make Dhoongar chicken, a traditional Rajasthani dish.

Later in Udaipur, after we had visited Seva Mandir, the NGO with which we have been collaborating for many years (www.sevamandir.org) I took another class with a local cook from Udaipur called Meenakshi Singh. Here I learned several other delicious new dishes which I hope you’ll also try…

Dhoongar Chicken

recipe by:Darina Allen

Delicious whole smoked chicken curry from Swati Rathore at Chanoud Garh in Rajasthan - www.chanoudgarh.com

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 30 mins

Cooking Time

 30 mins

Total Time

 60 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Indian

Ingredients

• Smoked chicken

• 2 - 3 tbsp sunflower oil

• 450 - 700g (1 - 1 1/2lbs) chicken pieces without skin - could be thigh or breast

• 175g (6oz) onion, finely sliced - save the 1st layer for smoking at the end

• 250g (9oz) natural yoghurt

• 5 tbsp fresh tomato purée

• 15g (generous 1/2oz) tsp ginger paste, peel and purée

• 15g (generous 1/2oz) tsp garlic paste, peel and purée

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 black cardamom

• 5cm (2 inch) cinnamon stick

• 2 cloves

• 1/4 tsp turmeric powder

• 1/4 tsp coriander powder

• 1/4 - 1/3 tsp red chilli powder

• 1/2 tsp salt

• For the Dhoongar Smoking:

• wood charcoal

• 1 onion, peeled and halved, remove one layer and keep for smoking

• 1 tsp clarified butter (ghee)

• 2 cloves

• 1 tbsp fresh coriander leaves

Method

1. Heat the sunflower oil on a medium to high heat in a saucepan, add the bay leaf, black cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. Stir and fry for a minute or so until the flavours are released. Then add the sliced onions and cook until beginning to brown (8 - 10 minutes). Turn up the heat, add the chicken, allow to fry for 4 - 5 minutes. Add the fresh tomato purée, yogurt, ginger and garlic paste, coriander powder, turmeric powder, red chilli powder and salt to the chicken. Stir well and bring to the boil. Cover with the lid and allow to simmer on a medium heat, stirring occasionally. When cooked (15 minutes approx.), remove the lid and fry until the oil separates and the spices are well fried (8 minutes). This is a dry curry but packed with flavour. You can add some extra ghee if necessary.

2. Now do the Dhoongar smoking.

3. Heat a stumpy piece of charcoal on a gas jet or in a barbecue.

4. Take the layer of the halved onion (or a little stainless-steel bowl) and lay on top of the chicken in the saucepan. Place the hot charcoal in the centre of the onion layer and then pour a little ghee or butter on top along with a couple of cloves. It will instantly start to smoke, cover immediately with a tight-fitting lid and leave for 15 - 30 minutes for the chicken to absorb the smoke.

5. Uncover, discard the onion, and charcoal.

6. Finally add the chopped coriander and serve.

Kashmiri Lamb Korma with Green Coriander

recipe by:Darina Allen

A rich, flavourful Kashmiri curry usually made with goat, but mutton, pork or beef also works well. Serve with pilaf rice.

Servings

8

Preparation Time

 20 mins

Cooking Time

 2 hours 30 mins

Total Time

 2 hours 50 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Indian

Ingredients

• 250g (9oz) onion paste (purée)

• 100ml (3 1/2fl oz) water

• 3 - 4 necks of lamb, cut into 2.5cm (1 inch) slices and trimmed of excess fat - your butcher will do this for you

• 30g (1 1/4oz) clarified butter [ghee]

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 15 whole green cardamom pods, gently crushed to slightly open the pod

• 1 x 400ml (14fl oz) tin of coconut milk

• 75g (3oz) green coriander, chopped

• 200g (7oz) natural yoghurt

Method

1. Whizz 100ml (3 1/2fl oz) water with the onion in a food processor for 30 seconds until it forms a smooth paste.

2. Heat the clarified butter in a cast-iron pan and brown the lamb for 3 - 4 minutes on each side. Cook in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. Add to a casserole and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Remove the excess oil from the cast-iron pan and deglaze with 200ml (7fl oz) water and bring to a boil. Add the ground onion and cardamom and cover with the boiling water. Cover the casserole and cook in the preheated oven for 1 1/2 - 2 hours until the meat is tender. Remove from the oven.

3. Add the coconut milk, mix thoroughly and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes on the hob. This will produce a delicious rich sauce.

4. Add lots of chopped green coriander, finally stir in the yoghurt, stir well and serve.

Ahilya Fort’s Tomato Cutt

Richard Holkar at Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar kindly shared this recipe with me. Serve as a vegetable accompaniment.

Servings

12

Preparation Time

 10 mins

Cooking Time

 35 mins

Total Time

 45 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 6 tbsp vegetable oil

• 1 bay leaf

• 1/2 tsp cumin seeds

• 125g (4 1/2oz) onion, chopped into 5mm (1/4 inch) dice

• 450g (1lb) tomato, chopped into 5mm (1/4 inch) dice

• 25g (1oz) garlic paste (peel and purée)

• 25g (1oz) ginger paste (peel and purée)

• 2 tsp turmeric powder

• 1 - 2 tsp chilli powder, depending on how hot you like it

• 2 tsp cumin powder

• 1 tsp garam masala

• 2 tsp sugar

• 110ml (4fl oz) water or vegetable stock

• 1 tsp salt

• 250g (9oz) tomato, chopped

• For the garnish:

• 2 tbsp fresh green coriander, chopped

Method

1. Heat oil in a pan on high heat, add bay leaf and cumin seeds and cook for a few seconds until the cumin pops.

2. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion and cook stirring until light brown in colour (5 - 6 minutes), then add the 450g (1lb) of chopped tomato and cook on a medium-high heat for 7 minutes.

3. Add the ginger and garlic paste, mix well and cook for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat, add the remaining ingredients and cook for another 7 minutes. Check for seasoning and add 1/2 teaspoon of salt if necessary.

4. Add remaining 250g (9oz) of chopped tomato and simmer for 5 minutes. It should be a thick soupy consistency. This will depend on how juicy your tomatoes were. If it’s too thick add 110ml (4fl oz) of boiling water or more if needed.

5. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve.

Hot Tips 

West Waterford Festival of Food 

A date for your diaries: West Waterford Festival of Food takes place from April 14-16 2023.

The festival is one of Ireland’s largest and longest-running food festivals. It will showcase the very best food from the region as visitors enjoy upwards of 70 events including a food stage, pop-up dinners, a full children’s programme, foraging trails, bus tours, cooking demos, top chefs, high-end and casual dining experiences, plus one of Ireland’s largest outdoor markets.

The main hub for the 3-day festival is in the harbour town of Dungarvan with events also taking place in Lismore and throughout the West Waterford region, making it a truly local celebration.

• For more information, see www.westwaterfordfestivaloffood.com

An Afternoon of Spring Delights with Rachel Allen at Ballymaloe Cookery School on Thursday, March 16 2023 

Join us for an afternoon of our favourite spring delights incorporating seasonal ingredients to add to your culinary repertoire. Copies of all recipes and tastings included.

• For more information, see www.cookingisfun.ie