Cooking with Colm O'Gorman: Monkfish tikka masala with flattened rice

'I adore monkfish. It has a wonderful, meaty, firm texture and can take on lots of flavour'

We did not eat a lot of fish when I was little, which, when you think of it, was odd. I grew up in Wexford, a seaside county with a strong fishing tradition. Kilmore Quay was not far away, and the Quays in Wexford town were home to trawlers and mussel boats.

I do not remember seafood being on the menu much in local restaurants, either. A lot has changed since then, thankfully, and seafood has very much come into its own in recent decades, though it can still be hard to source fresh, locally caught fish.