Restaurant review: Twisted, Kinsale, Cork

The problem with being first out of the blocks in a long distance event, particularly when you set off at an impossibly blistering pace, is rivals will eventually catch up. 

And though Kinsale led from the front for over two decades, the country finally found it, panting against a wall, race seemingly run.

As popular as ever with tourists, local restaurants still churned out mighty volumes, but the erstwhile ‘Gourmet Capital of Ireland’, back when the rest of us still drooled over ‘hang sangidges’, seemed to have shot its bolt, the scene was flabby and bereft of innovation.