The Menu: Annascaul Beerfes
Back when The Menu was a self-important young turk wielding a large skillet and an even larger culinary ego, he was dragged along one evening to Michael Clifford’s long-since departed restaurant on Cork’s Mardyke. At the time, still in thrall to the burgeoning global fusion movement that was to engulf Irish cooking for a fair spell, he was rather underwhelmed at what was in prospect but tasting was another matter entirely — a chastened but supremely satiated Menu received an early and very important lesson in what could be achieved using magnificent Irish produce albeit cooked by a Michelin-starred master. Though, sadly, Clifford is no longer with us, his young son Peter has taken up the mantle and this apple hasn’t fallen too far from the paternal tree as he is fast developing a reputation worthy of his father’s. Having just been installed as head chef in Harry’s of Dawson Street, Dublin, expect that old staple to receive a serious makeover and rapidly develop a rep akin to the one Clifford’s sported back in its heyday. www.harrysdawson.ie
