Meet the people and taste the atmosphere at Midleton Farmers Market
Jason Carroll, Loving Salads at the Midleton Farmers market. Pictures: Eddie O'Hare
Ever since Eve went picking apples, the pursuit of food has fed into the curiosity of humankind, while the shared consumption of life-preserving fodder bridges voids between friends and foes alike.
The historical reliance on spears and bows ‘n’ arrows may have been supplanted by wallets and carrier bags, but the end result in the pursuit of sustenance hasn’t changed much; people gel around food and Midleton’s Farmers Market is a prime example of such wonderful sociability.
The market is held from 8am every Saturday morning at Cork County Council’s Fair Green, a small, enclosed concreted facility, just off the gyratory.
Any retailers outside the wall “are not trading as part of our organisation”, says Midleton Farmers Market secretary, Mary O’Connell, who sells jams and relishes at her own market stall.
The setting's relaxed ambience is complimented by musicians such as local duo Paul and Steve, or perhaps by trad talents like those of Scoil Íonsaigh Aghada, whose recent presence doubled as a fundraiser for teenager Féile O'Sullivan, who suffered a serious farm accident.
“We even have live music in the middle of winter. The performers vary but It’s a permanent fixture”, informs Francis Murphy.
Francis is the daughter of former councillor, Ted Murphy, who co-founded the market with Ballymaloe cookery icon, Darina Allen, 26 years ago.
Ted recalls “travelling the country, meeting farmers and committees, to improve and promote it”. The initial logo was “local food for local people”, he recalls, “and it still is”.
Both he and Darina still maintain a presence at the market, Darina through a Ballymaloe Cookery School outlet and Ted by sometimes overseeing a flowers, eggs and vegetable pitch alongside Francis.
Noticeably, the locals now include new residents from afar, as a milieu of cultures, eager to experience home-sourced produce, be it traditional or of non-native origin, converge.
In 2000, the market’s inauguration was viewed as setting a new template, amidst a policy that every product should be sourced from within a 14-mile radius.
That provision largely persists amongst the 20 plus stalls, albeit the delivery mode at times extends to the side door of delivery trucks Even then, the output tends to be fresh, additive-free and personally created, while a few fast-food outlets strive to lure the more immediate palates.
Midleton Farmers Market is an intimate, colourful arena, the diverse hues of the stall canopies emphasising the sense of fun and cordiality that defines it.
Barbara, a humorous, friendly baker, is the co-proprietor of Cork-based (just inside the 14 mile radius if you take a shortcut through Parnell Place!) Heaven’s Cakes, with her husband Joe.
She began baking 30 years ago and found she had a natural aptitude for it. Midleton has been benefiting from her realisation every Saturday for the past 12 years. Never happier than when standing patiently beside an oven, Barbara began by making croissants but nowadays puts the art into tarts with a kaleidoscope of distinctive and delicious creations.
Bearing titles like ‘passion fruit cheesecake, French chocolate mousse, date walnut treacle’ and ‘butter pudding topped with berries’, its like munching a Van Gogh!
Nearby, 30 large salad bowls bearing Greek yogurt Raita, aubergine brinjal (Sri Lankan style), roasted cumin cauliflower, turmeric flaked almonds and much, much more, inspires a snake-like queue with more appetites than there are bowls.
Smaller numbers spread across the bust plateau purchase breads, fish, carrots, broccoli, potatoes, peppers, onions, herbs, jams, flowers, burgers, goats’ cheese, chips, even firewood, their voices contributing to the overlay of chatter that resonates all round.
“It’s a meeting place”, Francis observes accurately.
Proof quickly arrives, through Norma, from Cloyne. She is “just passing through” and has decided to “have a coffee, buy some bread and maybe bump into people I know”. She is not a regular visitor, “but if I had visitors I’d be bringing them here!”, she decides.
Laura, 32, from Cobh and heading home, exemplifies much that is typical of the market’s clientele. “I come here most Saturdays”, she reveals.. “I love the atmosphere, the fresh fruit, the salads, the fresh bread...”.
Pausing with a bulging bag of nourishment, she is leaving with loaves, Danish pastries “and a combination of all the salads!”, she laughs.
It’s easy to engage in conversation here and sometimes harder to stop one.
A man from Lisgoold, accompanied by his four year-old granddaughter, visits the market most Saturdays on foot of a penchant for rye bread from Heaven’s Cakes.
The conversation almost immediately diverts into the benefits of a high fibre diet, not to mention the pitfalls of not having one!
Perhaps its a grandad and granddaughter strolling through a marketplace, pausing to buy bread together, that epitomises the charm of Midleton’s farmers’ market most to of all.
“It’s very family orientated”, Francis nods. “Its about the whole community, regardless of ages, coming together. That’s what makes it so worthwhile”.
A quarter of a century ago, local businesses were wary of a farmers’ market coming to town, fearful that it would detract from their businesses.
The opposite proved to be the case with the market drawing in extra footfall. “They all want it now”, smiles its co-founder Ted, with the tone of a man who never doubted his vision and is delighted to have delivered it.
As the man with the rye bread observed, “There’s a great oul’ buzz to the place”.
