Take a horsey holiday for a staycation to remember
The riding group with MJ Equestrian, cantering around the grounds at Mount Juliet, Kilkenny. Photograph: Patrick Browne
In the eighties, before Castle Leslie became the luxury getaway it is today, its lodge was a working equestrian centre where my mum, then a chef, would rustle up hearty lasagnes and bubbling shepherd’s pies for wealthy American tourists who came to Co Monaghan for some galloping good fun (I’ll try not to descend into Jilly Cooper equivoque, it was all very tame and well behaved I’m told, “for the eighties”).
They would stay at the lodge as the castle had yet to undergo its radical transformation to five-star hotel and was still in the private ownership of the Leslie family.
With childminding barely a thing back then, on many occasions my sister and I accompanied my mum to work at the lodge, where we scurried about, up and down winding staircases, hiding in priest holes, or just mucking about in the stables.
Occasionally, we got a free riding lesson and for one reason or another, I never took to it. ‘Lesson’ is probably a bit misleading: fired onto a horse and off you went, around the menage, barely hanging on. The sheer size, strength and unpredictability of these spectacular creatures…well.
I wittered on about all of this to my pal as we drove towards Mount Juliet, where we had been offered the chance of a hack at the estate’s equestrian centre. With the assumption being that a horse would undoubtedly throw me at its earliest convenience once it felt a jittery, petrified mess attempting to take the reins, I still wasn’t committing to going through with it.
It was however the wettest January on record, or so it felt, and with literally nothing else to do, we decided to break from the monotony and escape the city. Mount Juliet is about 90 minutes’ drive from Dublin in lush Kilkenny countryside and horses have always played an important part in the estate’s history.
MJ Equestrian offers horse lovers, novices and the truly terrified a tailor-made experience with the lovely Tara, a steady hand who heads up the state-of-the-art equestrian centre.
Insisting I be paired off with Maggie, a beautiful 21-year-old grey Irish draught horse standing at 16 hands high, Tara assured me her quiet, yet persistent nature would suit my fretful, doomsayer personality.
My pal was partnered with William, a six-year-old chestnut Irish cob cross, laid back and good for gentler rides, we were told.
Mounting and dismounting is always the hardest part, I contemplated. And even though kitted out and ready to go, I was still eyeballing the exit. But Tara’s special skill is to put her groups of riders at ease and gently but firmly help you make the transition from ground to horseback quickly and so we were up and ready to go in a jiffy.
Then the clouds tore apart, the sun came out for what must have been the first time in 47 days and as we took off to explore the 500-acre estate, just as Lady McCalmont once did astride her steed, nerves started to settle.
Gently making our way through meadows and ancient forests, along the River Nore, we enjoyed the same soothing sights once enjoyed by earls and lords. We chatted about the estate’s history, while Maggie occasionally stopped to snack on fern from the riverbank.
She may as well have been attempting to cross the Nore, William Wallace style, my palms sweaty and grip tightening, but aside from that, it was 90 minutes of pure bucolic bliss, connecting with these magnificent creatures, and the land all around us. It’s also a fairly challenging workout, make no mistake, and we were told we would be sore the following day.
As we dismounted, Tara advised the cure: a hot sauna in the hotel’s wellness centre, followed by a stiff gin. As we said our goodbyes, Maggie gave me a gentle nudge as I turned to leave, making sure I acknowledged the part she’s played in helping me overcome my silly, long-standing fear. “Don’t worry Maggie,” I said, “I’m going to write about you!” For an equestrian overnight stay at Mount Juliet estate see mountjuliet.ie.
We’re in the Chinese Year of the Horse. There’s no better time to visit the plentiful equestrian centres around the country, catering for novices all the way up to experienced riders.
Pelletstown Riding Centre in Co Meath is Aire approved and whether it’s a lesson or a leisurely farm hack, they have horses to suit children and adults of all standards. You can partake in year-round riding, with indoor and outdoor arenas, a sand gallop and over 60 stables. There is also a cross-country course set on their 100-acre farm with obstacles to suit all levels that are always completely optional. pelletstownridingcentre.com
Moycullen is a family-run riding centre set in scenic Connemara where you can take group or private lessons under the watchful eye of highly qualified instructors. Take a one- or two-hour trek along beautiful bog roads, with Lough Corrib as your backdrop. Try a beach ride on Rusheen Bay, a sandy trot dependent on tides. You can go from gentle walks to more active canters. There are also pony camps throughout the easter and summer holidays. Go for the day or try a two-day riding package that includes local accommodation, meals and riding experiences. moycullenriding.com
Clonfert Equestrian Centre, just outside Maynooth, is known for its friendly atmosphere and novices are welcome. Lessons generally start from age five and take place in purpose built outdoor arenas. With multiple outdoor jumping areas there is plenty of space to progress from basic riding to dressage. Beautiful grounds and well-cared-for horses make this a popular place for regulars and tourists. clonfertequestrian.ie
Kinsale Equestrian Centre is one of Co Cork’s best-rated riding schools for visitors and locals. The livery yard is located in Kippagh near Kinsale and allows for use of 40 to 50 acres of grassland and trails alongside the River Bandon. Kids’ camps tend to book out early during school holidays and are a fun experience for pony lovers, with a mix of riding, stable management, show jumping demos and games on offer. There are also team building days for adults. kinsale-equestrian.ie
Based above scenic Ventry Bay, Longs Riding Centre in Co Kerry takes advantage of the breathtaking Dingle Peninsula as part of its trekking experience. Mountain and countryside treks are on offer and again are suitable for beginners up to experienced riders. The centre mainly owns cobs, known for their calm temperaments, who are great for nervous and beginner riders. longsriding.com
Back to the catalyst of my equine dread, I’ve since returned to Castle Leslie many, many times and can attest to the fact that its equestrian centre, castle lodgings and setting are second to none. The food is excellent too, maybe not as good as my mum’s, but I would say that! castleleslie.com
