Stylist Laura Jordan's guide to summer shorts — and four of her top picks
Laura Jordan personal stylist looking at shorts in Marks & Spencers. Picture: Moya Nolan
There are two words ready to strike fear into a woman once the sun shines or a holiday is booked. One is ‘bikini’ and the other is ‘shorts.’
Bikinis can be substituted, dare I say upgraded, for chic swimsuits but there is less of a viable replacement for shorts.
Aside from the prep involved (tanning, shaving, waxing and the timing of each), the sheer variety of options and perceived opportunities for success or failure is intimidating to say the least.
I have observed this as a task similar to finding the perfect pair of jeans, but with the added stress of bare legs and an ever-increasing number of styles and trends. When shopping for summer wardrobes, my clients’ request for shorts is typically followed by a long sigh.
The last thing I would suggest a person do is head straight to the shops for a frenzy of trying on. There is a small chance that you will hit the jackpot, but more of an outlier possibility. Similarly, ordering every variety on a website is equally overwhelming.
As with all shopping, I prefer to have a plan and a purpose before approaching the task.
I like to divide this challenge into four categories: Length, Fabric, Waistband and Style. Cost is another important deciphering factor, but I have found that the right pair carries an almost priceless value and multiples are often bought once this right pair is discovered.
To start, assess the length you want to shop for. The American school system is responsible for the most user-friendly method of determining appropriate short length (yes, really) and it’s as simple as standing straight and placing your hands by your sides. The point at which your middle finger hits your thigh is the recommended shortest length, i.e. if your shorts or skirt were above this self-imposed line, you were sent home.
This does not take into account style, preference and flair, but it does help create a benchmark of appropriateness for those who are looking for it.
There are a few misnomers in this category; we want comfort but also support at the mid section, which is a lot to ask of a fabric. For this reason, I divide into three categories, denim, wool and cotton/blend.
Denim is a typical fabric of choice for casual and indeed, long-lasting garments. Great for holidays, casual day wear, and added support at the tum and bum.
Wool would be used for tailored / city shorts and some bermuda options, the best of tailoring is accompanied by a fine wool, to maintain cut and shape. Treat these like suit trousers and note that dry cleaning may be needed.
Cotton/Blend are the most multi-functional of all short fabrics. This can be cotton blended with wool or linen. Pure cotton will be the work-horse of the wardrobe, but often requires a compromise in the style stakes.
The main mishap involves linen, which is a very popular choice for summer and indeed a natural, breathable fabric. Linen shorts look super on mannequins, but once you sit, creasing is unavoidable. My advice here is to look for a linen blend option; still breathable and natural, but with more structure from the cotton and less creasing as a result.
The most important consideration. This is make or break territory.
Elastic for comfort but not for flattery, unless you have an especially toned midsection and you don’t need the garment to do any work for you. Tailored is the winner here. A zip, a button, or hook and eye fastening and an internal seam that shapes the hips at the front and back is key. Denim shorts tick the fastening and supportive fabric boxes, but don't have the dart lines, unless added by a tailor.
Darts pull you in and are relatively invisible, a fine line is all that is detectable from the outside of the garment. Pleats are cut outwards, meaning the fabric layers either finely or with more of a tailored placement. While designed to add detail, the overall impact is adding volume and bulk in the area where they are placed. A double-edged sword so to speak. The main note here is to balance any volume with a more fitted style on the top half, or a belt.
Which shorts are for you is a question that far transcends length, fabric and waistband type. Deciphering between the jargon is no mean feat. This season alone we have City, Jorts, Bermuda, Culottes and Tailored, as well as the varying denim options of high waist, hot pants and cut offs.
In short, City are a shorter version of tailored trousers and typically sit no higher than a hand-span above the knee. Jorts are denim versions of these and tend to be wide and long. Bermuda link to City, but have a typically lighter fabric. Culottes are longer, past the knee to mid-shin, an ideal option for those who want to leave their trousers in the wardrobe but are less comfortable in shorts.
High waist and tailored typically go together as an added element of the above.
I have provided FOUR options below and most importantly I chose them.
Like all clothes, there is no such thing as a ‘one fits all’ and I haven't covered the all-important sizing issue, of which there is no standardisation on the UK or Irish high street. Size guides get us so far, but if in doubt, size up for comfort, especially in heat. Belts can also be used to highlight a waist if desired and have the dual function of cinching fabric.
Well cut waist and gentle flare to the knee (a straight cut in denim is rarely flattering at a shorts length)
Cotton mixed with linen, a great fabric blend.
- €39, Marks & Spencer
Belt loops add polish for workwear.
Hook and eye fastening.
Viscose blend fabric means less ironing.
Available up to size 26.
- €41.50, Next
Well-cut waist with darts.
Deep indigo is more flattering than light.
A laser-cut hem is softer than a horizontal cut on the upper leg.
- €39.99, H&M
Pockets
90% cotton and 10% linen
Machine washable
- €50, River Island
- Laura Jordan is founder of the Irish Style Institute and StyleSavvy®, Ireland’s largest image consultancy and personal shopping service, offering consults for menswear and womenswear, both online and in person.
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