Wine with Leslie: Chilean wines are an Irish favourite and with strong value
Chile is an easy place to grow grapes thanks to a consistent climate and the absence of the vine louse phylloxera
Errazuriz, ar ais arís! Errazuriz wines from Chile are back on the Irish market again having been away for a few years. At the height of the wine’s popularity in the early 2000’s a friend of mine christened the brand “ar ais arís” (the Irish for ‘back again’) which sounds almost the same. In his house it was always on offer if you visited.
The Irish love of Chilean wine is not difficult to explain, but it does surprise French, Spanish and Italian winemakers when they hear that we buy more wine from Chile than from any other country. Chile accounts for more than a fifth of our consumption and the reason we like them is consistency and price. If you buy a Chilean Merlot, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc you know exactly what to expect and it will probably only cost you a tenner.
Chile is an easy place to grow grapes thanks to a consistent climate and the absence of the vine louse phylloxera. No phylloxera means that vines can often be planted ungrafted which makes them less expensive and allows them to crop quicker, those savings can be passed on to the consumer.
Chile is only 160km wide with cool Pacific breezes on the coastal side and the high Andes mountains providing shelter and snow melt for irrigation on the other.
Most of the wine we drink from Chile is from the Central Valley which is dry and warm, nestled as it is between the Andes and the coastal mountain ranges. But look north to Limari and Elqui or south to Itata and Patagonia and you can find fascinating wines there too. I’ll be in Chile when this is published, courtesy of Concha Y Toro, for the first time since 2015, so expect more Chilean wines on here soon. Three tasty Chilean wines to try below.
From grapes grown in Aconagua Valley north of Santiago in the Valparaíso region.
This spends 9 months in French barrels so be warned, but I promise the oak doesn’t overpower. Vanilla and tropical fruit aromas, ripe melon and citrus in the background, lemony and fresh with rounded ripe fruits and a streak of apple acidity for balance. Due in Dunnes soon if not there already.
- Dunnes Stores
Carménère is the forgotten grape, Chile is the only country that has it in any quantity. Related to Cabernet and Merlot it was killed off by phylloxera in Bordeaux.
Ripening a little later than Merlot, with which it is often confused in the vineyard, this has a touch of leafy freshness on the nose with a ripe juicy fruit-forward palate and touches of chocolate and cacao.
Exactly the kind of wine that made us love Chile.
- Tesco
From 100+ year old organic País vines, descendants of the first grapes planted in Chile by missionaries (the grape is called Mission elsewhere).
Itata is far south of the Central Valley and a fascinating region with lots of old vines and small producers.
This has bright red fruits, structure and grip and lots of juicy berry flavours, supremely drinkable.
- L’Atitude 51; JJ O’Driscolls; Mannings Emporium; Mitchell & Son; LeCaveau.ie
A gold medal winner at Blás na hÉireann this year. Made from a blend of rhubarb wine and apple cider with everything sourced in Munster.
Pours a pleasing pale pink with creamy rhubarb aromas plus citrus and green apple.
Ripe red apple and rhubarb flavours, textured, crisp and delightful.
- 1601; Bradleys; Castle; No. 21; Wine Centre; McHughs; Blackrock Cellar; stonewellcider.com
