Wine with Leslie: Think white, think Côtes-du-Rhône!
Simon Tyrrell of Les Deux Cols winery tells me that he sold out of white wine last autumn, something unheard of in the past. Pic: iStock
For as long as I can remember Côtes-du-Rhône marketed itself with ‘Think Red, Think Côtes-du-Rhône’. Not anymore, the emphasis now is on sustainable production, more sparkling and light reds and a ‘Rhône in White’ focus.
The plan is to double white production (currently around 7%). In 2024 Gigondas Blanc began arriving on shelves following a lobbying campaign from producers in that village. Previously, producers were forced to sell their whites as plain old Côtes-du-Rhône. The crus of Rasteau and Vinsobres are hoping to follow suit and it makes sense, white Châteauneuf-du-Pape (based largely on grenache blanc) has always been available if rather underappreciated.
Given the significantly warmer vintages, Gigondas has opted for clairette over grenache blanc, a grape that flowers and ripens late and rarely hits 13% ABV. Clairette can be a little flabby when fully ripe, so needs blending with bourboulenc or something similar to add acidity.
Simon Tyrrell of Les Deux Cols winery tells me that he sold out of white wine last autumn, something unheard of in the past. Domaine Alary, based in Cairanne, are another producer celebrating their white wine sales with 30% of their vines now white, four times more than the average. The only problem being that the whites are often ripe by August, and nobody likes cutting their holidays short, their winemaker told me. Both their reds and whites impressed, so you will see more mentions of this estate in the future.
White Rhône wines are great with food and well worth exploring; you’ll find three below. Also watch for Guigal’s Côtes-du-Rhône blanc (JJ O’Driscolls, Matsons) and Château Beauchêne from Whelehanswines.ie.
This is on offer until early next week, reduced from €18 and is a solid introduction to Rhône white wines.
A blend of 60-40 grenache blanc and clairette, the former bringing white floral notes and texture and the clairette (likely picked young) bringing freshness.
Crucially made without malo-lactic fermentation to preserve acidity. Fragrant, floral and ripe aromas with pleasing textures and a crisp citrusy finish.
- O’Briens, obrienswine.ie
From a 38ha biodynamic estate not far from the village of Vinsobres (Chaume- Arnaud Vinsobres red is also recommended) in the south.
From 40% marsanne, 40% roussanne and 20% viognier (grapes we associate with the N. Rhône), ripe pear and white peach, lemony and characterful, textured and supple on the palate but balanced by lemon-fresh acidity.
- Drink Store; Lennox St Grocers; Neighbourhood Wines; Green Man Wines; Rua Deli Mayo; Lecaveau.ie
This is new to the market so just a few stockists right now. Alary farm organically in Cairanne and their Cairanne blanc and rouge wines are also recommended.
A blend of clairette, roussanne, viognier and grenache blanc this has pineapple and lemon scents, a creamy texture balanced by zingy freshness, admirable purity and fine length and complexity. Try with scallops.
- Theallotment.ie; Red Island Wines; Wineonline.ie
Exclusive to Co. Kerry, so you’ll have to visit The Kingdom. Sir Maurice O’Connell (descendant of The Liberator himself) has blended Irish single malt, pot still and grain whiskey, aged it for 6 years and finished it in Port casks. Raisins, figs and red berry aromas, a fruity smooth palate with honeycomb and barley sugar with pepper and spice on the finish. Easygoing and quite delicious.
- CarryOut Killarney; Castle Tralee; O’Driscolls Cahirsiveen; SuperValu Kerry; waywardirish.com
