Wine with Leslie: The fertile crescent of the Middle East is the cradle of wine culture

There was a time when Merlot featured prominently on the backstage riders of rock stars along with M&Ms (with the brown ones removed obviously), it was dubbed “Cabernet without the pain”, thanks to its soft tannins and easy-drinking fruitiness.

So they are bombing the Beqaa Valley and Iran again, the cradle of wine culture and civilisation. 

There are no reports of Lebanon’s wineries being hit so far and at least it is at a relatively quiet time in the cellar and vineyard for the 50 or so wine producers based there.

We forget sometimes that the fertile crescent of the Middle East is the cradle of wine culture and that the most famous wine poetry is from Iran with the likes of Hafez, Omar Khayyam and Rumi. The Arabic wine poetry tradition is even older, with poets like Abu Nuwas (8th Century) and Al-A’sha.

There are no wineries in Iran any more, of course, but grapes are still a major crop. Despite its name, the Shiraz grape does not originate in Iran’s most romantic city but is now proven to be from the Rhône Valley. 

It does grow extremely well in places like the Beqaa and in the Baltroun Mountains in Northern Lebanon, however. The city of Baltroun was founded by the Phoenicians and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world possibly as old as the 14th century BCE.

The oldest proven evidence of winemaking that we have found is in Armenia and in nearby Georgia, both of whom have a long and continuous tradition of winemaking. I will be visiting Armenia later this year to judge at the Concours Mondial Bruxelles wine competition and will let you know how I get on.

As far as I know, we have just one Armenian wine here – Zorah – I recommend it below. I also recommend a wine from Georgia and here’s hoping that sometime in the future I will be able to recommend a wine or maybe beer from Iran, where sours were once a speciality (watch for Back Home Beers if you are ever in Brooklyn, NY).

Bedoba Saperavi, Georgia, €22.95

I recommended this producer’s apricot and herbal-scented orange wine before Christmas, so it is about time I featured their delicious red. Saperavi is arguably Georgia’s best red grape, certainly its best known. This is ripe and floral scented with blackberry and a touch of pepper. 

Soft and ripe on the palate with an almost lush tone, layered and lingering and a fine introduction to the wines of Georgia.

• JJ O’Driscolls; Bradleys; Vintry; Mitchellandson.com

Zorah ‘Karasi’, Armenia €40-42

From an ancient grape variety, Areni Noir, which is also found in Turkey and is well suited to hot days and cool nights, thanks to its thick skin. Zorah have 15ha under vine, grown at altitude (1370m) and are near the site of an ancient 6,000 year old winery as well as Mt. Ararat. 

This is herbal, aromatic and textured with spice notes, soft red fruits on the palate, balancing textures and stony minerality.

• Worldwide Wines; Woodberrys Galway; Martins; Corkscrew

Château Musar 2017-2018, Beqaa Valley, Lebanon €48-50

An icon of the wine world, not just Lebanon. Natural long before it was fashionable, with a wild ferment and no added sulphur, Musar is a living tribute to a family and a country’s fortitude and resilience. Blackberry fruits mingle with leather and tar, a layered palate with ripe plums, black fruits and violets, plum skins and freshness. 

Pure and elegant with a wild streak. Musar Jeune (€25) is also recommended.

• Widely available: JJ O’Driscolls: Bradleys; Ardkeen www.ardkeen.com, O’Briens, SuperValu; thealloltment.ie

Spirit of the Week

Teelings Wonders of Wood No. 4, Carpathian Oak, 50% ABV, 70cl, €80

The fourth edition of the Teelings Wonders of Wood is 50-50 malted and unmalted barley, triple distilled, and matured in virgin Carpathian oak barrels, an oak knownfor its tight grain and spicy character.

Floral, fruity aromas with apple and spice notes, fruit-forward on the palate with ripe pear and apple, lingering spice notes with a finish of sandalwood and dark spices. Delicious.

Bradleys; McHughs; Celtic Whiskey Shop; Dublin & Cork Duty Free; TeelingDistillery.com