Wine with Leslie: Merlot's disappearance, and the 'Sideways effect'

Bordeaux itself is less fashionable but I still drink it regularly, I love how it ages and I particularly love its balance of fruit, tannins and acidity and how the wines only occasionally go over 14% ABV. Three to try.

There was a time when Merlot featured prominently on the backstage riders of rock stars along with M&Ms (with the brown ones removed obviously), it was dubbed “Cabernet without the pain”, thanks to its soft tannins and easy-drinking fruitiness.

Where did all the Merlot go? I was asked this recently and, sure enough, if you scour the supermarket or off-licence, you will see much varietal Merlot on offer, except perhaps some entry-level wines from Chile and the Languedoc.

There was a time when Merlot featured prominently on the backstage riders of rock stars along with M&Ms (with the brown ones removed obviously), it was dubbed “Cabernet without the pain”, thanks to its soft tannins and easy-drinking fruitiness.