Rising to the top: Declan Ryan reflects on a career of Michelin stars and stellar sourdough

Declan Ryan, the man behind Arbutus Bread, is finally hanging up his apron. He looks back at a stellar career in food with Joe McNamee

Declan Ryan, Arbutus Breads: "When we closed the restaurant, I immediately started a bakery in our garage at home." Pictures: Chani Anderson

Having dusted off the flour for the very last time, Declan Ryan’s professional life draws to a close, thus ending one of the most remarkable careers in Irish food in which, not once but twice, he led where others would follow in his wake.

Turning 81 in July and having faced down a litany of health challenges in recent years, Ryan is selling his Arbutus Breads Bakery to Dublin-based Bretzel Bakery, which was taken over by William Despard in 2000 and who will maintain the business as a going concern.