Wine with Leslie: Italy is at the core of modern wine world

My selections this week include some of the best wines from Italy
Yes, the French created the first modern wine regulations in the 1930s but Italy can claim to have had designated regions for longer.

Yes, the French created the first modern wine regulations in the 1930s but Italy can claim to have had designated regions for longer.

I’ve just finished listening to a fascinating book on the ancient near east by Amanda Podany entitled ‘Weavers, Scribes and Kings’ that delves into the 3000-year history of the Near East (e.g. Mesopotamia) as captured in the clay tablets used for record keeping. 

As you might expect, wine gets lots of mentions as it is as old as civilisation, although barley and date beer were the daily drink of regular folk with wine kept for the aristocracy.

The book details life in the world’s first cities through the lives of people that actually existed and wine and beer were a part of everyday life. 

The next great civilisation after this era was the one created by the Romans who are the reason that wine is so prominent throughout Europe as they made sure to bring vines with them everywhere they went.

Italy is still at the core of the modern wine world although in more recent centuries France has had more influence on what we drink. 

Yes, the French created the first modern wine regulations in the 1930s but Italy can claim to have had designated regions for longer.

The first mention of Chianti Wine was in 1398 by Ser Lapo, the ancestor after whom the Mazzei family have named their Chianti Classico featured below. 

Kellys Hotel Rosslare have their annual wine week in early March this year and will be holding tastings of the Mazzei range as well as Domaine Marchand-Tawse in Burgundy.

Italy is not just about history and traditions it is also a hotbed of natural and more progressive wines with Elena Pantaleone perhaps the most renowned - her skin contact orange wines are benchmarks for the style. 

Also below is a pristine natural Verdicchio another region that has been around for a millennia.

La Marca de San Michele ‘Salta-Tempo’, Verdicchio, Marche, €23-24

MacCurtain Wine Cellar; Mitchells; Sheridans; Fallon & Byrne; SIYPS.com

Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi is one of Italy’s most historic wine regions but this version is from a very modern producer who farms organically and uses minimal intervention.

Citrus scented with a saline streak, melon and honey on the palate — textured, tangy and complex.

La Stoppa ‘Ageno’, Emilia Bianco IGT, Italy, €44.95

L’Attitude 51; Le Caveau; Green Man Wines; 64 Wines; Baggot St. Wines

I realise this is not the cheapest but it is occasionally sold by the glass in L’Atitude 51.

One of Italy’s best producers this gets long skin contact and has a rich honey-orange colour with bruised pear aromas, tannic with stone fruit flavours, orange rind, lemon oil and grapefruit touches.

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico 2019, Tuscany, Italy, €29-30

Vintry; Blackrock Cellar; Clontarf Wines; McHughs; Grapevine; Pinto

Mazzei are currently in their 25th generation (founded in 1435).

If you are lucky enough to be staying in Kelly’s Rosslare there is a tutored tasting of their wines the 5th & 6th March.

Cherries, red fruits, elegant and textured with grippy darker fruits on the palate but also elegance and subtlety.

Beer of the Week

Franciscan Well ‘Well Hazy’ Session Ale, 4.0% ABV, 330ml - €2.50 (4 for €10)

Castle Tralee; Dunnes; SuperValu; Tesco; widely available

This is part of the core range from Franciscan Well’s but not featured before. 

Fran-Well have also launched a new ‘Docklands Series’ and the first is a Hazy IPA, available on draught in their space as well as The Hyde Out, Costigans, The Woodford and others. Visit franciscanwell.ie

This pours a hazy pale gold with tropical fruit aromas mingling with citrus, fruity and dry on the palate with a clean hop focused finish. Crisp, lively and refreshing.

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