Wine with Leslie: My trip to Nantes was a gateway to grand Loire
I’m just back from Nantes, the home of Muscadet and gateway to the great wines of the Loire.
Just 25 minutes south from the centre is Muscadet country, you could perhaps start in the village of Saint Fiacre sur Maine, named for the 7th century Irish saint. If you head east within 45 minutes you can be in Anjou drinking Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc (around the city of Angers, also home to Cointreau). Nantes was the seat of the Dukes of Brittany, you can visit their Château, and the city in general has a pleasing grandeur. There are beautiful 18th century buildings, some of which are sinking slightly due to their muddy foundations; it makes them seem even more romantic. And don’t forget to ride the 40ft mechanical elephant on the L’Île de Nantes.
Nantes retains its Celtic feel and the Irish are made feel particularly welcome as my son can attest, having studied at the university (we were over for his graduation). Given it was 42C some days we took things easy, but one meal stood out, a three-course lunch at La Mandale restaurant (€25pp) washed down with natural wines sourced from just up the river, including a chilled red. Natural Loire reds and whites work really well on hot days but so, of course, does conventional Muscadet and Chenin Blanc.
The best Muscadet is labelled ‘sur lie’, indicating it rested on its lees after fermentation adding texture and character. Watch for Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine rather than plain Muscadet. Four summer-ready drinks are below, including a bargain from Dunnes; Muscadet is more available in independents than supermarkets. Nantes, like Ireland, is a great place for apple brandy and cider, don’t miss Waterford’s La Petite Clem apple wine below.
Made from 100% ‘melon de bourgogne’ grapes as is all Muscadet. Vignerons need to work with this grape to extract flavour by perhaps lees stirring or even barrel fermentation (in old oak).
This is a solid example at a great price, citrus and apple scented, racy and lively with texture and finesse.
Try with spaghetti à la vongole (clams), moules-frites or even fish and chips.
- Dunnes Stores
Former jazz musician Nicolas Reau sources his grapes exclusively from organic producers.
With nine months on its lees after fermentation, this is packed with soft pear and apple aromas and flavours but with a pleasing saline and slate dry streak to keep things in balance.
- L’Atitude 51; DeDe Pantry; Dodi Doolin; Ely; Jus de Vine; Le Caveau; lecaveau.ie
I’ve often mentioned Joe Landron’s organic/ biodynamic wines (eg “La Louvetrie” Muscadet, €23). He’s an organic pioneer and a brilliant producer, his son is following in his footsteps.
Landron’s sparkling wine is also fascinating, zesty and vibrant with floral aromas mixed with citrus and a pleasing yeasty brioche character.
This would rival many a grower’s Champagne in my view.
- Wines Direct Athlone & Mullingar, winesdirect.ie
A collab between Waterford cider maker Liam McDonnell and French winemaker Clemence Dubent, part of Déise Drinks along with Dungarvan Brewing & Blackwater Distillery.
Pale straw colour, aromas of baked apple and bruised pear, bright crisp apple flavours, a lively but elegant mousse, bone dry and lingering tangy freshness. Light and zingy, a perfect summer drink.
- Cass & Co, Wine Buff & SuperValu Dungarvan; Ardkeen; McHughs; Bradleys Cork; legacycider.com
