At the 2023 Irish Food Writing Awards, held at the end of October in the salubrious surroundings of Dublin’s RDS, where over 90 nominees for multiple awards attended a splendid banquet in the vast library, the reaction and applause was especially heartfelt as Denis Cotter headed to the stage to receive the award for Best Irish Cookbook for Paradiso: Recipes and Reflections (Nine Bean Rows Books).
It was the cherry, on the icing, on top of the cake in a very special year for Cotter — actually, make that “years”, for just days before, his internationally renowned, multi-award-winning vegetarian restaurant celebrated the 30th anniversary of its founding in 1993.
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