Wine with Leslie: A peachy Albarino for under €10 and a Chablis that is worth every penny

French Republican Guards ride their horse past the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, Friday, July 14, 2017. Pic: Etienne Laurent
Bastille Day is just gone and so this week’s column is all about the mother country, France. I use the phrase ‘mother country’ as without France and its dedication to the joys of the dining table, the wine world would be utterly different.
It is fashionable to criticise French food and wine but this is usually done by people who have not bothered to pay attention. Almost all of the grapes you have heard of originated in France, modern winemaking techniques largely began there yet it was also France where the ‘Natural Wine’ movement began (in the Loire and in Beaujolais).