Move over gin: Why Vodka will be the spirit of the summer
Vodka does not get enough love. Sales may have dropped a little in recent years but it remains Ireland’s biggest selling spirit at 32% (Whiskey is 26%) and is very much back in vogue.
Vodka is the blank canvas of the cocktail world offering texture and alcohol zing, but allowing other ingredients their place in the limelight. It is the pasta, the potatoes, the rice - and it is up to us to project flavour and personality onto it.
My first taste of good vodka was when I somehow managed to crash the launch of the Finnish Embassy in Ireland when I was a student in Trinity College back in the early 1990s. Bottles of premium Finlandia vodka were encased in two-inch thick blocks of ice and poured into our glasses by gorgeous flaxen-haired Finns - we alternated shots of rich pea soup with this chilly viscous nectar and I was immediately hooked.
I've been keeping my vodka in the freezer ever since but have never quite managed to recreate the soup (as for seducing flaxen-haired Finns, I couldn't possibly comment).
The word Vodka is derived from the Slavic word voda meaning ‘water’ - vodka translates as ‘little water’. Sweden, Poland, Ukraine and Russia all have a claim to early versions of the drink. Vodka is usually distilled from grain (sometimes 3 or 4 times in high-quality versions) but can also be made from maize, beets or potatoes. Vodka should be neutral but it should also taste of something and it is instructive to taste vodka neat - that bottle costing €60 or more may not taste as good to you as the one at €25. As for international brands you will have to make that decision yourself but I do want to mention that Stoli is made in Latvia so calls for a boycott in March were misjudged.
The arrival of premium vodkas such as Grey Goose and Ketel One in the 1980s gave vodka a huge boost but it has since lost some ground to Gin and Whiskey. The reopening of bars and restaurants after the lockdowns of 2020 however have seen vodka and vodka-based cocktails get a bit of a revival - the main beneficiary being the Espresso Martini which seems to be everywhere. Recipe below.
There are a number of quality Irish vodka brands and I particularly like Kalak for its creamy barley notes and Sausage Tree (from the makers of Gunpowder Gin) for its hints of caramel and spice. The latest on the market is Istil 38 made in Co. Meath by Sugarloaf Beverages.
Istil 38 is distilled four times so needs no filtration and besides the original vodka, has two flavour variations - a Pink Berry and a Vanilla Vodka. Vanilla vodka is particularly useful if you like Espresso Martinis and Pornstar Martinis. Istil 38 believe their Vanilla Vodka is rich enough to allow you to omit Tia Maria or Kahlua in the traditional Espresso Martini recipe - simply increase the quantity of vanilla vodka and espresso.
Almost as long as there has been vodka there has been flavoured vodka and the king of these in my book is Zubrówka Bison Vodka from Poland which contains a blade of Bison Grass in the bottle. The bison grass adds hints of sweet apple, coconut and maple syrup and is delicious neat or in your cocktail of choice. Every major vodka brand has flavoured versions but these three are among the best.
Belvedere is one of the best of the premium vodkas and they have teamed up with the Shelbourne Hotel to create the Belvedere Terrace for the next couple of months. If you can’t make it to the Shelbourne watch for the Blackberry & Lemongrass Belvedere and the Lemon & Basil with a Touch of Elderflower which can be mixed with soda water or Prosecco.
Cîroc is rare in having grapes as its base. Owned by Diageo it was brand created in 2003 and is distilled 5 times.
New on the shelves is the Cîroc Summer Citrus is flavoured has blood orange and has noticeable citrus notes so makes a good long drink with soda water or with some orange juice and cranberry.
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Absolut I confess I am less keen on Absolut drunk neat but some of their flavoured vodkas are hard to beat. From the classic Citron to the more voluptuous Kurant to fruity Mango and creamy Vanilla - there is even an Absolut Rainbow dropping in June 2022 for Pride Month.
You need a cocktail book if you don’t have one already. The Difford’s Guides are comprehensive and straightforward but annoyingly heavy on branding. I have a couple of old Michael Jackson (no relation) books I still use, and I also recommend ‘Spirited’ by Adrienne Stillman (Phaidon). Some classic cocktails below to brighten up your summer.
The latest trend in both restaurants and in drinks is dessert cocktails and surely the doyenne of these, in fact the post-lockdown drink of the 2021-2022, is the Espresso Martini. A little like Vodka and Red Bull or coffee and a joint (I’m told) this is a heady mix of a depressant and a stimulant - something our systems love.
Classic and delicious
Shake: 50ml Vodka, 30ml Kahlua or Tia Maria, 10ml Sugar Syrup and 1 strong freshly made Espresso over ice. Strain into a cocktail glass and dot with coffee beans.
A creamy treat that never goes out of fashion
Pour 50ml Vodka and 30ml Coffee Liqueur into a tumbler filled with ice and stir.
Beloved of The Dude in The Big Lebowski.
Pour 50ml Vodka and 30ml Coffee Liqueur into a tumbler filled with ice and float some cream on top.
Now that Sex and the City has had a revival so has the Cosmo.
Add to a shaker: 50ml Lemon or Berry Vodka, 25ml Cointreau, 25ml Lime Juice, 25ml Cranberry Juice and shake over ice. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a twist of lime.
For a Screwdriver stir 50ml of vodka with 80-100ml of fresh orange juice over ice. For a Harvey’s Wallbanger add a tablespoon of Galliano and garnish with an orange slice - and for a Sloe Comfortable Screw Against the Wall add 50ml of Southern Comfort and 30ml of Sloe Gin and stir well.
Finally, the cure.
To a cocktail shaker add 50ml of Vodka, 100ml of Tomato Juice, 20ml Lemon Juice, a teaspoon of Worcestershire Sauce and 2 dashes of Tabasco plus a pinch of salt and pepper. Add ice, shake or stir vigorously and pour into a Slim Jim glass. Add a large ice-cube, a slice of lemon and a stick of celery.
