Darina Allen: How to make the best traditional Rarebit with Smoked Haddock 

And other delicious recipes from my travels in England 

Smoked haddock rarebit

After my gushing article last week about the wildflower lanes and dandelion-filled permanent pastures of West Wales and the Cotswolds, there’s more to come…

There’s so much catching up to do with students and friends after more than two years of anxiety and dread. We had a sort of plan but as we wandered from one special place to the next, our Instagram photos gave a clue as to our whereabouts and suddenly our phones began to ping with messages and suggestions from old friends and Ballymaloe Cookery School graduates.

‘Don’t miss’….

‘Come and see us’… ‘Can’t believe you are having lunch in my favourite local pub’…

That was the beautiful Victoria Inn in Eastleach overlooking the 12th Century church and a magnificent bird cherry tree in full bloom, delicious and simple food.

Another student who did a 12-Week Certificate Course in September 1998 popped in for breakfast while we were staying at Thyme in Southrop in the Cotswolds and another from 1989 joined us for a coffee catch up. Then on we went to Bristol.

Put Little French Restaurant in Westbury Park on your list too. We had a delicious catch-up lunch there. Again lots of little plates of seasonal food. I particularly enjoyed a little monkfish kebab with rouille and a sprinkling of chives. I also remember scallops with sauternes butter sauce and the tiny Pyrenees lamb cutlets. I also loved the toasted Marcona almonds with rosemary. A simple twist on a tasty pre-dinner nibble.

And then on down to Coombeshead Farm in Lewannick on the Devon/Cornish border, the main focus of our visit to the UK. In 2019, we managed to book a two-night stay and loved everything about this little farmhouse hotel in the midst of a 66-acre regenerative farm and gardens. There are extensive no-dig vegetable beds, kitchen food waste is made into compost and almost 100 rare breed hens roam through the woodland. 

They rear a few Mangalitsa pigs – an old-world Hungarian breed with thick curly hair that produces the sweetest, most succulent pork I’ve ever tasted. Its name means ‘hog with a lot of lard’, rightly prized for its flavourful marbled meat and abundance of wickedly decadent healthy, nourishing fat – no hormones, antibiotics, or growth promoters.

Tom Adams and his team of young cooks, chefs, bakers and gardeners are passionate about what they do. During the pandemic, they pivoted and created Coombeshead Provisions from the farm and gardens, also a Pop-Up Shop and courtyard café with a hugely impressive natural wine and local beer selection as well as sausages, rillettes, hogs’ pudding, piccalilli and a variety of cured meats and relishes from the pigs and garden produce. 

The Coombeshead sourdough is made right there in the bakery in the farmyard and sent hundreds of miles to devotees in London every day. The rich yellow butter is hand-churned from local clotted cream made in the traditional way by Barbara Anne Lane from the cream of her little herd of one Guernsey and four Jersey cows. One of the highlights of the entire trip was learning how to make clotted cream in a time-honoured way from this beautiful woman now in her late 70s.

The food was delicious, we looked forward to every meal. On one day, we drove down to the enchanting little fishing village of Fowey and had lunch at North Street Kitchen – a sister restaurant of Fitzroy’s, part of the Jolene Group of gems and definitely worth adding to your list. Plate after plate of super tasty, seasonal food.

After lunch, we went to Ethy House Gardens, open for just one day a year. We drooled over the rare rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas and walked through a sea of wild bluebells in the woodlands. There were Cornish cream teas, and even more thrilling was the Pelynt Male Voice Choir (not one of the handsome chaps under 75) belting out Cornish songs. Everyone jumped to their feet and stood proud as the boys in their impeccable blue blazers and red monogrammed ties sang a rousing rendition of the Cornish anthem, Trelawny. There was hardly a dry eye in the courtyard on that beautiful afternoon.

Here are recipes for some of the many delicious dishes I enjoyed.

Smoked Haddock Rarebit

recipe by:Darina Allen

This delicious Smoked Haddock Rarebit even contains some Guinness.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 30 mins

Total Time

 45 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 British

Ingredients

• 200g (7oz) naturally smoked haddock full fat milk (enough to cover the haddock)

• 25g (1oz) butter

• 25g (1oz) plain flour

• 1 tsp mustard powder or English mustard

• 2-3 dashes Tabasco sauce

• 100ml (3 ½ fl oz) Guinness

• 450g (1lb) aged Cheddar, grated

• 4-6 pieces of day-old bread to toast

• To serve:

• Worcestershire sauce

•  

Method

1. Place the haddock in a small saucepan and submerge in milk. Cook on a low heat until the fish is fully cooked through. Allow to cool and then remove the fish from the pan, reserving the milk.

2. Melt the butter in a fresh saucepan and stir in the flour until fully combined and smooth, allow it to colour slightly in the pan whilst stirring.

3. Still on a gentle heat, add the mustard or mustard powder, the tabasco sauce, then the Guinness along with 75ml (3fl oz) of the smoked haddock milk, stirring constantly.

4. Once smooth, stir in the grated cheese. As soon as the cheese has melted, transfer the mix to a bowl and flake through the cooked smoked haddock.

5. Allow the mix to cool before generously covering the pieces of toast (ensure the mix is spread all the way to the edge of the toast to prevent the bread from burning). Return the toast to the hot grill until the mix has turned golden brown on top and bubbles slightly.

6. Add a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce and serve immediately.

Fried Monkfish with Carrot Salad and Mustard Mayonnaise

recipe by:Darina Allen

One of the tasty seasonal plates on the blackbird menu at North Street Kitchen.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 40 mins

Cooking Time

 10 mins

Total Time

 50 mins

Course

 Starter

Ingredients

• 400-500g (14-18oz) monkfish fillet

• 2 free-range eggs

• splash of milk

• 100g (3 ½oz) panko breadcrumbs

• For the carrot salad:

• 3 carrots

• white wine vinegar

• 1 tsp chives, finely chopped

• 1 tsp tarragon, finely chopped

• For the Mayonnaise:

• 2 egg yolks

• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar

• 1 tsp Dijon mustard

• 1 tsp English mustard

• pinch of salt

• 250ml (9fl oz) rapeseed oil

• 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard

Method

1. First peel the carrots and shred them. We use a julienne blade on a mandolin, but you could also grate them. In a bowl, lightly salt the cut carrots and leave them for about half an hour at room temperature to soften.

2. Meanwhile, make the mayonnaise by whisking the egg yolks, white wine vinegar, Dijon and English mustard along with a pinch of fine salt, and slowly add the rapeseed oil until fully combined and glossy. Finish by folding through the wholegrain mustard and salt/additional vinegar to taste.

3. Ensure the skin and membrane (along with the central bone) have been removed from the monkfish and dice into 2cm (3/4 inch) cubes. Dust the monkfish in flour, then the eggs whisked with a little milk, then the breadcrumbs. Use one hand for the dry and one for the wet ingredients to ensure you don’t end up breadcrumbing yourself. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle a few extra breadcrumbs on top to guarantee they are fully covered.

4. Drain off any liquid from the carrots and toss with a few drops of white wine vinegar, the chives and tarragon and any additional seasoning as required.

5. Place the monkfish in a deep-fat fryer (or a pan no more than half full of rapeseed/vegetable oil) at 175°C/347˚F until dark golden brown on the outside. Season with fine salt and pepper and serve immediately with a big dollop of the mustard mayo and the carrot salad.

Roast Scallops with Sauternes Beurre Blanc

recipe by:Darina Allen

This delectable scallop dish was inspired by a starter at Little French in Bristol.

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 15 mins

Total Time

 30 mins

Course

 Starter

Cuisine

 French

Ingredients

• 8 large scallops on the rounded half shell

• Flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper

• Sauternes Beurre Blanc (see recipe)

• To Serve:

• Lemon wedges chives, finely chopped

• Sauternes Beurre Blanc:

• 3 tbsp Sauternes

• 3 tbsp Moscatel or best white wine vinegar

• 1 tbsp finely chopped shallots

• pinch of ground white pepper

• 1 tbsp cream

• 175g (6oz) unsalted butter, diced

• Salt, freshly ground pepper

• Freshly squeezed lemon juice

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 250˚C/500˚F/Gas Mark 10.

2. First make the Sauternes Beurre Blanc.

3. Put the first four ingredients into a heavy stainless-steel saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and reduce down to about a tablespoon.

4. Add 1 generous tablespoon of cream and reduce again until the cream begins to thicken. Whisk in the chilled butter a couple of pieces at a time, keeping the sauce just warm enough to absorb the butter. Season with salt, taste and add a little lemon juice if necessary.

5. Strain through a fine sieve. Transfer to a Pyrex bowl over a saucepan of hot but not boiling water. Keep warm until needed. Save the remainder to serve with a piece of fresh haddock or hake.

6. If the scallops are live, open the shell, remove the fringe and everything else except the coral and muscle. Wash well. Put the scallops back into the rounded half shell.

7. Season each scallop with a little salt and freshly ground pepper. Roast in a very hot oven until the scallops are barely cooked, 3-4 minutes approx.

8. Spoon a tablespoon of Sauternes Beurre Blanc over the top of each one. Sprinkle with very finely chopped chives. Serve immediately with a squeeze of lemon juice and a wedge of lemon.

Hot Tips 

The Big Grill (11th – 14th August 2022) 

The Big Grill team has a scorching-hot line-up of chefs, cooks, restaurants and guests coming to Herbert Park, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 from Thursday 11th - Sunday 14th of August 2022. The barbecue always takes centre stage but it doesn’t stop with the food. This year the festival has increased its Little Grillers family-friendly experience on the Saturday and Sunday day sessions. There's a new drinks tent - Brewcamp, (additional Offside dining experiences – book ahead) and long-table feasting (new for 2022). The wildly popular Chilli Eating Challenge has returned and there is a busy lineup. Great music and entertainment – doesn’t it sound fun...

For more information, see biggrillfestival on Instagram.

Saturday Pizzas at Ballymaloe Cookery School 

Saturday Pizzas are back again for the Summer Season. Delicious, seasonal toppings from the farm, gardens and local producers.

Open 12pm – 4pm. Telephone ahead or call in: [phone].

POTA Café – Connemara

If you are in beautiful Connemara, check out POTA café in Baile na hAbhann, just down the road from Connemara Airport. We’re delighted that it has recently been listed by Lucinda O’Sullivan in her top 100 Restaurants in Ireland for 2022. Diarmuid ó Mathúna, Ballymaloe Cookery School alumni go out of his way to source local, seasonal, organic ingredients to feature on his daily changing menu.

For more information, see potacafe on Instagram.

Buttercup Meadow at Ballymaloe Cookery School Gardens 

The buttercup meadow behind the Shell House at Ballymaloe Cookery School Gardens is in full bloom just now – while you’re there, visit The Celtic Maize, The Pond Garden and check out the new Topiary Border.