Wine with Leslie: Three innovative New Zealand wines worth a taste

Try pairing these wines with upcoming autumn rugby matches

Garent and Maria Keogh of WinesDirect have welcomed a new baby and a New Zealand wine this week.

New New Zealand wines and new babies this week. Firstly congratulations to Gareth and Maria Keogh of WinesDirect.ie on the recent arrival of baby Louis. WinesDirect is a long established family owned company run by brothers Gavin and Gareth Keogh with delivery nationwide and shops in Mullingar and Athlone.

Gareth has also created his first wine, a sauvignon blanc from Hawkes Bay on the eastern coast of the North Island of New Zealand. Every NZ sauvignon you have tasted most likely came from Marlborough on the South Island which produces grassy ripe crowd pleasers packed with ripe, ripe fruit (and frequently residual sugar) cut with green apple acidity. There’s nothing wrong with the style but wines from the big producers have a sameness about them, probably why they sell so well. “I wanted something different, why make the same wine as everyone else?”, Gareth told me. A late-night rugby conversation (via text) with Wairarapa based winemaker Paddy Borthwick led to the creation of Henry’s Hills sauvignon (featured below). “I wasn’t interested in just copying the big brands. This wine has proper regional character and I can relate to the region given my own upbringing in rural Westmeath.” The label was designed by Mullingar-based artist Diana Lee and it took several tastings before Gareth was happy.

Also new to the market is Pure Island from Fleur McCree who appeared on this page a few years ago with a previous project of hers called Little Beauty which may ring a bell. Pure Island is from a small quality producer based in Marlborough, has a low carbon footprint and supports NZ’s Nature Fund. Three innovative NZ wines for autumn rugby matches, maybe raise a toast to Ireland centre and Hawkes Bay native Bundee Aki.

Pure Island Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, €13.50

From NZ winemaker Fleur McCree, who has Cork roots, sustainable viticulture and low CO2 emissions.

Normally €18, this is on promotion in Dunnes for the next while. Cut grass and Granny Smith apple aromas with some background passionfruit hints.

Lively, clean and fresh on the palate with no lingering residual sugar just lots of vibrant, mineral-fresh green apple fruits and a bracingly dry finish.

• Dunnes Stores

Henry’s Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, €18.74

A collab between Gareth Keogh of Wines Direct and renowned NZ winemaker Paddy Borthwick made from grapes grown along the cool climate Ngaruroro River with coastal breezes and alluvial soils.

Tropical fruit aromas mix with ripe apple and pear, rounded pear, and apple flavours balanced by zing, freshness, and noticeably more elegance and weight than is usual from NZ sauvignon.

• Wines Direct Mullingar & Athlone, winesdirect.ie

Paddy Borthwick Pinot Noir 2024, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, €23.25

I generally prefer North Island pinot noir to the soft Marlborough style, it tastes a little more linear and fresh (if not quite matching the Burgundy-level pinots from Central Otago).

This is a very solid example, cherry and spice aromas, sweet-tart cherries on the palate with a touch of earthy forest floor ‘sous-bois’ cutting through. Elegant and fine.

• Matsons, WorldWideWines; Wines Direct Mullingar & Athlone, winesdirect.ie

Highbank Organic Apple Brandy; 40% ABV, 50ml €55

Irish Apple Brandy is currently seeking PGI status and this one of the first. From Rod and Julie Calder-Potts organic farm in Kilkenny, you already know their apple syrup, now imagine it with ten times the flavour and concentration.

This is rich, complex and delicious with apple tart-tatin, treacle and raisin flavours. Larger and smaller bottles available.

• Highbank Orchards Kilkenny, highbankorchards.com/shop