Restaurant Review: Elbow Lane

ONE CONSEQUENCE of the global economic kerfuffle was the increased clamour for culinary comfort, nostalgia for food that evoked the safe haven of childhood, when all was right with the world.

Overly precious fusions, foams and other futuristic whimsies constituting some of the more egregious excesses of molecular gastronomy were exchanged for bistro basics and some serious nose-to-tail eating.

We rediscovered the visceral in the gristle, took to literally sucking the marrow from the bone and the oldest culinary technique of all, cooking over fire, began to make inroads into the increasingly ‘casual’ world of fine dining.