Restaurant Review: Elbow Lane
Overly precious fusions, foams and other futuristic whimsies constituting some of the more egregious excesses of molecular gastronomy were exchanged for bistro basics and some serious nose-to-tail eating.
We rediscovered the visceral in the gristle, took to literally sucking the marrow from the bone and the oldest culinary technique of all, cooking over fire, began to make inroads into the increasingly ‘casual’ world of fine dining.
Cooking over a wood-fired grill in full view of all is one of the main selling points of Elbow Lane Brew & Smokehouse. The other is the in-house micro-brewery out back.
It is an awkward room, long, narrow with precious little natural light, but they’ve embraced limitations, creating a funky, buzzing little 25-seater. Perished with the cold, G and I are delighted to snaffle the chef’s table, alongside the toasty kitchen area and order a selection of the in-house beers, the Jawbone Pale Ale, in particular, going down well as we peruse innovative menus.
Formerly head chef of Elbow Lane’s more mainstream sister restaurant, Market Lane, and a very good chef at that, it seems Stephen Kehoe is stretching his wings.
I start with Low Smoked Brisket Roll with Rojak Sauce, brisket, of course, another revivalist favourite of recent times. It arrives as a crispy croquette that, once broached, yields shredded, smoked slow-cooked meat, a fruity rojak sauce adding a piquant counterpoint, and it is no hardship at all to eat.
G has Chermoula Prawns with Pea Sprouts, Cherry Tomato and Crusty Bread, chermoula being a Moroccan condiment, regularly and pleasingly paired with fish dishes. Very nice it is too but nicer again it is to be served exquisite Irish prawns in the shell, a sharp rejoinder to all those who believe rubbery, flavourless Asian tiger prawns constitute ‘Irish seafood’.
G’s main course is a no-brainer for one who balks at red meat: Seared Scallops, Kale, Fondant Potato (€21), obligingly served without the usual Pork Belly and Bone Marrow. A shameful omission, I know, but it is her dinner after all.
I, however, am in a quandary, a burgundy-blooded caveman wanting only the primal option, something cooked directly over fire. But there are also ovens, pans and fryers in this cave and grilled choices on the night leave me underwhelmed: a sea bream, almost definitely farmed and imported, versus a steak.
I only eat steak in restaurants as a last resort and it pains me to abandon such an intriguing menu and settle for the resolutely mainstream but local beef wins out and I have Wood-grilled Sirloin with Smoked Bearnaise Butter & Grilled Gem Lettuce (€20).
It is cooked well, a pink heart oozing smokey juices, though I can’t help but pine for something a little more outré. Triple Cooked Chips, with Elbow Seasoning are extra (€4). G shares a delicious scallop, panfried and then steamed in Elbow Lager but refuses all pleas for a second.
G heartily approves of Blackberry S’Mores with Homemade Marshmallows but a single mouthful has me on the verge of a diabetic coma. Blood Orange and Chocolate Crumb with Vanilla Cream is slices of orange, near suffocated under a humungous slack-heap of chocolate crumb, a quenelle of vanilla cream plonked on top. Somewhere along the line, ‘rustic’ simply became rushed but it is a wonderful combination of tastes and textures and a little more care with presentation would make for a fine dessert.
A delay in our main courses arriving had seen them served up with a fulsome and frank apology, in keeping with the overall fine and friendly service but, in truth, keep my glass topped up and I could dawdle all night in this hopping little home-from-home.
There is sense that the brains trust behind Elbow Lane have yet to fully explore the culinary potential of such a set-up, to take that leap of faith and truly soar but it is early days and I have no doubt they’ll find their way. When they do, I’ll be there, adding fuel to the fire.
€113.15 plus tip (includes tasting tray of beers and wine)
Tuesday-Thursday & Sunday: 5pm to 10pm; Friday-Saturday: 5pm to 11pm
Food: 7½/10
Service: 8/10
Value: 7½/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Beer: 8/10
Wine: 7/10
