A good egg
Incredible value for 50c-70c and they would still be worth every cent if they were to cost €2.
Real free-range organic eggs cost a lot to produce. If they are organic they must have a special feed which does not contain any animal materials or animal fats, any products derived from genetically-modified organisms, or any raw materials produced by chemical processes. This diet costs about 60% more than conventional feed.
There is a growing demand for eggs of this quality. People flock to farmers’ markets searching for free-range eggs from happy lazy hens - for many, a forgotten flavour.
Under Irish law, local farm eggs cannot be legally sold in shops unless the producer is registered with the Department for Agriculture and Food. Registration is based on compliance with EU legislation, the cost of which makes it impractical for a small producer to be registered. Those shopkeepers who stock these eggs have to hide them underneath the counter, or risk having them broken into a bucket or plastic bag by a Department of Agriculture inspector.
This scenario has been played out in many shops during the past few months, not only with fresh farm eggs, but also eggs that were less than one week from their ‘use by’ date. Many consumers and shopkeepers, angered by what they perceive to be extreme action, have asked if this regulation has more to do with protectionism than food safety.! As consumers, we should have the right to choose and more people are voting with their feet. Despite threats of Avian flu, the number of people keeping a few hens is skyrocketing - anything from two in the cute little eglu chicken house (have a look at www.omlet.co.uk) to six or 10 - just enough to supply the eggs for an average household.
It’s a simple holistic system; the food scraps from the house go to the hens and come back as eggs a few days later. The chicken manure goes onto the compost and is eventually returned to the soil to make it more fertile for vegetable growing.
The first course I did on how to keep chickens was totally over-subscribed. It is part of a growing interest in ‘forgotten skills’. A small but significant number of people want to produce their own food - eggs, chickens, bacon, yoghurt, simple cheese.
Collecting an egg from the nest is a thrill. When you cook with a real free-range egg it is completely different. Plump poached eggs are a cinch - no special equipment is needed, just a fresh egg. Homemade mayonnaise emulsifies in seconds, classic Hollandaise or Bearnaise are whipped up in minutes. An omelette is a thing of beauty - the texture and flavour a revelation. So this week I concentrate on simple recipes where the humble egg stars and delights.
