April Bloomfield’s Chopped Chicken Liver on Toast

I’VE JUST spent a few days in New York on a reconnaissance trip to check out what’s happening on the food scene over there.

As ever, the answer is a lot. Really big trends don’t emerge that often but one of the strongest I’ve seen in years is chefs embracing cooking over fire or, as they say over there, ‘live fire’.

It seems to be part of this enduring interest in hunter gatherer stuff and wild and foraged foods, not only on restaurant menus, but also at home, on the tables of the keen young food people.