Cook’s book

The Festive Food of Italy by Madalena Bonino published by Kyle Cathie

Festival of wild mushrooms and truffles: during the mushroom season from the end of September to November, Italians all over the country begin the serious ritual of mushroom hunting. Rising early in the morning, not only at weekends but sometimes before going to work, they venture into the woods kitted with woven baskets (any other kind of carrier could damage the spoils of the search), walking sticks, short knives and Wellington boots, and the hope of a good catch. Everyone has a favourite place to go and this closely guarded secret is not shared with just anyone but passed from generation to generation.

Polenta with Wild Mushroom Ragout

Serves 4

Polenta:

1½ litres milk

300g maize flour

115g butter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mushroom Ragout

70ml olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

550g mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and roughly cut

3 tbsp dry white wine

115g butter

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the polenta, heat the milk and season well. When it starts to simmer, gradually whisk in the maize flour. Simmer for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the butter and mix.

To make the ragout, heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion and garlic, and leave to colour. Add the mushrooms and fry for a few minutes, then add the white wine and a couple of tablespoons of water. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes.

Remove the lid and allow most of the juices to evaporate, then incorporate the butter and lemon juice. Stir in the parsley, check the seasoning and serve immediately with the polenta.

From the Festive Food of Italy by Madalena Bonino.