Inside the Kylemore Abbey chocolate kitchen: how a Benedictine nun built a unique Irish success story

Benedictine nun’s Connemara chocolate venture blends faith, craftsmanship and tourism into a unique and growing Irish success story

Sr Genevieve Harrington in Kylemore Abbey chocolate kitchen with the Lucky Lamb made from chocolate. Pictures: Ray Ryan

Sr Genevieve might well be the Catholic Church’s answer to Willy Wonka, having turned what once seemed an impossible dream — opening her own chocolate factory — into reality.

Six years on, and the Benedictine nun’s kitchen at Kylemore Abbey in Connemara is a whirlwind of activity as chef Veronica Davin churns out the nun’s signature “lucky lambs” and luxury chocolate boxes. 

Easter is their busiest time of year but Sr Genevieve Harrington isn’t fazed. More importantly, she still finds plenty of time for reflection in line with the order’s “work to pray” principle, which aims to eliminate idleness while maintaining moderation. 

Raised on a sheep farm in the Australian Outback, Sr Genevieve has enjoyed a colourful life. 

She had been involved in missionary work in the Kimberley region of Western Australia and nursing in Tangier, Morocco, before studying chocolate-making in Connemara. It was here she discovered her second calling in life. 

In recent years, the chocolate kitchen has embraced nuns and volunteers from all over the world who are keen to learn the art. Sr Genevieve hopes the tradition can continue for as long as possible. 

She admits some were initially sceptical about her idea to transform their old home economics room into a chocolate kitchen back in 2010. It followed the closure of Kylemore Abbey School — a secondary school for girls — six years earlier.

Sr Genevieve first trained in artisanal chocolate, honing her craft with handmade bars and honeycomb.

“I got my inspiration from this chocolatier in Kerry who I did a course with. The challenge was to make it in commercial quantities and make it a commercial product. I was greeted with scepticism at first,” admits Sr Genevieve. 

I don’t think people expected much but, bit by bit, they saw the possibilities. There wasn’t any fancy equipment so we knew it would have to stay small, allowing us to work within our means. 

"First we had one machine, then we had two. It started getting bigger and bigger. I started producing and packing and we even got machines. The secret is making really good chocolate because that’s what keeps people coming back. 

"Everything was upgraded from what it had before — and we even had a packing room.” 

The nun’s chocolate business is just one of the activities that keeps her young at heart.

Sr Genevieve: 'When I went back to Australia I was looking for moulds for chocolate with my sister. I wanted to get one of the frogs but she set me straight and told me it had to be a chocolate sheep.'

“Old age is wonderful. I’ll be 80 in July. I never grow sick of chocolate but as you grow older your taste buds change. I haven’t had much during Lent at all but I might have some over Easter. 

"Chocolate has always been part of my life. I can remember going to the pictures when I was a child. My favourite sweets to get was a white chocolate frog. It must have been on my mind because when I went back to Australia I was looking for moulds for chocolate with my sister. I wanted to get one of the frogs but she set me straight and told me it had to be a chocolate sheep.” 

Sr Genevieve has an unconventional approach to customer service, even if the majority of feedback is positive.

“I did receive a letter one time from a man who was most unimpressed with a peppermint chocolate. We took it very seriously as we do any issue that someone might have with our product. His main concern was that the filling was too ordinary. We refunded him and sent him extra chocolate. Then he came to visit, telling us, 'Now, that’s the way to handle a complaint'. He has since become a good friend of ours and he has even given us some archival material related to Kylemore Abbey.

"We have to thank people for the feedback they give us because we learn a lot from it. The reaction we get is very positive. I’m told that everyone likes caramel chocolate, which is a credit to Veronica’s hard work.” 

Sr Genevieve is referring to head chocolatier Veronica Davin, who returns the compliment, telling the Irish Examiner about the special bond she has with Sr Genevieve.

Sr Genevieve and head chocolatier Veronica Davin place a golden ticket in a chocolate Lucky Lamb.

“We get on really well and I absolutely love working with her,” she said. “She is very funny and has a great personality. I’ve been here for six years, having worked as a chef for 20. I knew there had to be more to life than working in a kitchen, which is why I decided to come here. I had made chocolate before but not like this. Here it all has to be tempered and there is a lot more to it.” 

Veronica underwent extensive training to perfect her craft.

“I went to Belgium to learn how chocolate was made, which was an unreal experience. I learned how to control the machine and the different ways to make the chocolate. I learned so much about chocolate, from different fillings to luxury boxes. Making chocolate is very rewarding. I love seeing it on the shelf and creating the fillings. It’s also nice to see the chocolate do so well.” 

People love watching Veronica at work in the kitchen.

We give out a certain number of golden tickets which gives people the chance to come in and see how chocolate is made in the kitchen. Everyone wants to work here. There’s never any trouble finding people to test the product. 

"I never dreamt that I would be making chocolate but I was lucky enough to get the job after applying. What I do is so totally different.” 

Sr Genevieve and her team also enjoy making luxury soap. “This is also going very well,” she says. 

“It’s very much hands on. People love working with their hands once they get used to it. We have bath soaps and Kylemore Abbey garden soap as well as soap we made during covid containing peppermint, eucalyptus, and tea-tree antiseptic. 

"Recently, I’ve been experimenting with glycerine, which is a new venture for me. This is just a novelty at the moment but it is rather fun. However, nothing beats ordinary soap with lard and fat and ingredients like that.”