Purls of wisdom: wrap up warm in this season's cosiest knits
Striped jumper, iClothing €54.95
Back in Spring, when Michael Kors sent models down the runway in oversized sweaters and knit dresses, Gabriela Hearst in fringed ponchos and knitted coatigans and Oscar de la Renta in glamorous appliquéd turtlenecks, designers could not have envisioned that the world would be turned on its head before Autumn actually came around — or that fashion consumers would come to greatly value tactility, comfort and warmth in the face of loss, distress and absence.
In this pre-Covid fashion world, groups of diverse models were joyfully linked together by conjoined sweaters during the AW20 fashion show of Japanese designer Issey Miyake in what now seems a cruel antithesis to our fractured, separated lives.
Philosophical musings aside, the Irish consumer has long known the value of a great knit, and, as one of our most famous exports (hello Taylor Swift’s Folklore) Irish designers know how to respond.
Then there’s Ros Duke and Madigan, making beautiful knitwear pieces and the handknits of Stable of Ireland, Katie Ann McGuigan and Faye Dinsmore. Mi-Chelle, Linda Wilson and Caroline Mitchell are just three designers doing gorgeous things with colour and texture and there’s no dearth of mainstream Irish brands catering to the demand for quality and affordability — think IrelandsEye, Aran Crafts or Westend Knitwear.
One of our favourites this season is the collection of Laura Chambers — the optimistic vibrant knitwear we all need right now.
Inspired by the countryside, and Chambers’ time spent listening to glamrock during lockdown, it features vibrant blue and yellow with chocolate-brown, tomato-red and olive-green in a collection that’s good enough to eat.
Aoife Dunican, aka The Style Bob, is an image consultant, stylist and public speaker who says that colourful knitwear is just perfect for shorter days, socialising outdoors and working from home this Autumn.
“Research shows that colour can affect not only our moods but how people respond to us,” says Dunican.
“Dopamine-inducing bright colours such as red, orange and pink can improve our mood, increase our attention and drum up energy. Cool blues and greens release calming oxytocin which helps us feel calm. Blue is the colour of communication and perfect for Zoom calls.”
Want to experiment with a slim cardigan set? Then look at wide-legged trousers or a flared skirt to create a chic, timeless look. Dunican advises fans of bright, chunky knits to try a half-tuck at the front and a slim trouser or skirt to avoid looking swamped.
“Fine knits that don't add bulk will also be your friend this season for chic outdoor coffee dates,” she says.
“COS and Arket are great for basics, &OtherStories for trends and Reiss for glamour.”
Over at the Seagreen boutiques, the collection puts a feminine spin on knitwear.
“Cocoa Cashmere is a luxury fashion and knitwear brand which is bold, colourful and playful,’’ says owner Sarah Gill.
“We have just launched Johnstons of Elgin, a timeless Scottish cashmere brand with pieces ranging from €129 for a lambswool crewneck to €309 for a cashmere sweater.”
Seagreen also stocks US brand 360Cashmere which combines New York chic with West Coast cool.
The KNITLAB by Zoë Jordan collection launched five years ago and features soft cashmere pieces in four styles and colours.
“I wanted to take the concept of essential knitwear, which was in those days quite stagnant, and shake it up for the modern day,” says Jordan, daughter of motor-racing legend, Eddie.
Knitwear designer, Lucy Nagle, teamed up with Pippa O'Connor to launch the Lucy x Pippa collection in September. The sweaters and loungewear here are made from 100% merino wool. The collection is a natural progression of an ongoing partnership between the two women, says Nagle. Pippa O’Connor has long been a fan of Nagle’s cashmere so the two came together to create a more affordable, every-day range which reflects both their styles.
Grace O’Riordan is womenswear assistant buyer at Arnotts. At the launch of Arnotts’ AW20 collections, she told The Irish Examiner that knitwear is always key for the buyers at Arnotts: “We are seeing a lot of two pieces and the twinset has definitely made a return."
“Meanwhile there’s a nod to nostalgia and heritage, albeit with a twist, so you might see a Fair Isle pattern but the sweater will also have puff-sleeves.”
The oversized cardigan has been having a moment and O’Riordan says that detailing such as statement sleeves or jewelled buttons are proving popular too: “In terms of silhouettes there are a lot of cocoon styles.
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