Terrazze Della Luna Pinot Grigio, Trentino 2012

IMAGINE the floral perfumes and white pepper of a fine German Riesling and mix that with the freshness of a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc such as Sancerre, and finally add in the lusciousness of the best Pinot Grigio from Northern Italy.

That in my view is Grüner Veltliner — so says Lenz Moser of the very fine Austrian producer and Grüner Veltliner specialists Laurenz V (the V signifies that Lenz is the fifth generation of his family to carry the name Laurenz, or Lenz for short).

Grüner Veltliner (GV) is Austria’s most distinctive grape variety and is generally grown on the steep slopes surrounding the Danube river to the west of Vienna, with the best grapes coming from regions such as Kamptal, Kremstal and Wachau.

Laurenz V are passionate advocates for this lesser-known grape variety, so Lenz was in Dublin a few weeks back with 24 different GVs from seven different countries for a group of us to blind taste and score.

The best had aromas of grapefruit, white pepper and spice with lively acidity and a rich mouth-feel and lingering raciness. This is indeed a “white wine with attitude”, to quote Lenz.

Laurenz V “Charming” GV was my highest-marked wine and was also the overall winner thanks to its immaculate pepper and grapefruit zing and lemon-mineral freshness.

It didn’t just charm, it fully seduced (and paid for the taxi home). Costing around €27 at retail, it is not that widely available but I do know that Deveneys in Dundrum stock it, so pop in to see the (equally charming) Ruth Deveney and she will also probably convince you to join her beer club.

Summer is an excellent time to explore Grüner as it is a natural with barbecue food and can stand up well to spices if you are feeling lazy and fancy an Indian takeaway.

One other GV I didn’t have room for below is Domaine Wachau, which costs around €18 and is available fairly widely (eg, Bradleys, North Main St and Matsons, Bandon).

Best value under €10

Terrazze Della Luna Pinot Grigio, Trentino 2012 — €10

Stockist: Superquinn

Some good deals are to be found at the Superquinn Italian wine and food sale on this month. I’m not sure this was ever worth €20 as they claim but it is a good example of Pinot Grigio at its best from the foothills of the Italian Alps (just across the border from GV country). Ripe floral nose with a pleasingly rich palate and some light fine acidity.

Vielle Fontaine Comte Tolosan IGP, 2012, France — €4 (was €8)

Stockist: Tesco

You read that price correctly, this wine is just €4 in Tesco until Jul 16th. What made me buy it was that it was made by the famed Plaimont Co-Op in St Mont in Gascony. Bright cherry and raspberry aromas, very light and fresh with a simple but quite pleasing jammy flavour.

Vielle Fontaine Comte Tolosan IGP, 2012, France — €4 (was €8)

Stockist: Tesco

The Plaimont Co-Op made their name with their Tannat-based reds and their white peach-scented Colombelle Cotes de Gascogne and while this is not in that league it is very, very drinkable. Bright lime, apple and kiwi fruits with some soft edges but also green apple crispness on the finish.

Best value under €20

Laurenz V Grüner Forever Grüner Veltliner 2011 — €13.99-14.99

Stockists: Next Door Clonakilty and Dunmanway, Deveneys Dundrum, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, La Touche Greystones

This is Laurenz V’s entry GV with just 11% alcohol a lighter character and a competitive price. Aromas of pine needles, white pepper and grapefruit, a soft palate with some refreshing bitter edges and a crisp finish.

Laurenz V Friendly Grüner Veltliner — €17.99-19.99

Stockists: O’Donovans, Next Door Clonakilty and Dunmanway, Mitchell & Son, The Vintry Rathgar, Cellarmaster Sandyford

This the second wine of the Charming Gruner Veltliner the overall winner of the tasting challenge. This is a little lighter and fresher than Charming but also has some good grapefruit and refreshing spice and salt and pepper flavours with touches of apple and peach. (Deveneys, Dundrum at around €15).

Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Von den Terrassen 2010 — €12.99-16.99

Stockists: Ardkeen Stores Waterford, Hollands Bray, Jus de Vine Portmarnock, McHughes Kilbarrack.

Normally costing around €17, I paid just €12.99 for this in Hollands of Bray recently. Classic white pepper aroma with a hint of smoke and citrus, supple and rich palate and a fresh finish.