Wine with Leslie Williams: Three fresh fizzes to celebrate summer
There are still problems with over-spraying by less scrupulous growers but all Moët’s own vineyards are now sustainably managed with no herbicides. Picture: iStock
Can the biggest be the best? Rarely, but being the biggest gives you power, the power to influence and to effect change for the good of your industry. Torres is successfully doing it in Spain and Moët et Chandon are not far behind.
Moët was established in 1743 by Claude Moët, a son-in-law’s Chandon name was added to the brand name in 1833. The brand just grew and grew and they currently own 1300ha of Champagne vineyards, 4% of the AOP, the largest holding of any house, not to mention the 4000ha of grapes they buy in.
Champagne once had a terrible reputation for pesticide and herbicide use but thankfully change began in the late 1990s and Moët (quietly) helped drive it. There are still problems with over-spraying by less scrupulous growers but all Moët’s own vineyards are now sustainably managed with no herbicides, they have planted over 100ha of cover crops and created ecological corridors. Around 70% of supplier’s vineyards are similarly managed. I had a go at hoeing for about 30 minutes and can confirm it is no easy task removing competing plants from between the vines (weeds).
My visit to Moët in April was no hardship (the bit of hoeing aside), and while I admit Brut Impérial is not always my favourite NV Champagne I admire its tangy fresh consistency and Chef de Cave Benoît Gouez’s move to 5% dosage, a good 2% lower than most houses.
My main takeaway was how well the Grand Vintage ages, we tasted wines from the 1960s, 1990s and early 2000s, all showed brilliantly. I also got a preview of the brand new Collection Impériale Creation No. 1 (c. €210), a Brut Nature blend of older vintages due to launch here soon, I think its better than Dom Pérignon.
Around 25% of what Alsace produces is fizz, and this is a solid example at a great price.
The pinot noir-based rosé version might be even better, fine red fruit character and lots of elegance. The blanc is a blend of chardonay, pinot noir, and pinot blanc, fruit-forward with brioche notes mixed with dried lemon peel, crisp and dry with lingering apple peel notes.
- Bradleys; JJ O’Driscolls; On the Grapevine; DrinkStore.ie; Grapevine; Independents.
Who says sparkling wine can’t be red? Please wipe the 70s and 80s 5% (and lower) cheap supermarket Lambrusco from your mind, this is completely different.
From south of Modena this dark red wine pours with a fluffy pink head and aromas of cherry and pomegranate, a lively mouthfeel and a dry finish. Also watch for Podere Cipolla Ponente Lambrusco (Sheridans; Green Man).
- World Wide Wines; Wine Centre; Corkscrew; Drink Store; Vintry.
Yes, Moët is ubiquitous but their vintage Champagnes have real substance and can age for decades.
The 2016 is their 77th vintage edition and while very tasty now will continue to age gracefully. Sweet lemon and white peach aromas with a touch of toasted brioche, a rounded supple palate, lemon verbena freshness and a pleasing structured, stony, core and a lemon rind tang on the finish.
- O’Briens; Tesco; SuperValu; Fine Wines; Mitchells; Molloys; Brown Thomas
Brand new from The Garden County Distillery in Wicklow (formerly Bonac), a 2016 distillation of malted and unmalted barley (62%-38%), bourbon cask aged, and in PX cask.
Sultanas and toffee aromas, delightfully fruity on the palate, lively spice and pepper notes on the mid-palate giving tingly tongue tanginess and a nutty-sweet finish. Delicious.
- Deveneys; Blackrock Cellar; Corkscrew; James Fox; Celtic; IrishMalts.com.
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