Wine with Leslie: A South African Pinot Grigio for under €10
Wine with Leslie: White wine with your local independent offy.
Warm congratulations to McHughs Off-Licence on the Malahide Road who were recently awarded National Off-Licence of the Year by the National Off-Licence Association (NOffLA). This is their first win for this shop, although their Kilbarrack Road shop won in 1995. Many years ago I was a judge for this competition so I know how difficult it is to win the top award, everything has to be perfect, from the selection of beers, spirits, wines and minerals, to the staff, to the look and feel of the shop.
McHughs began as a grocery business in 1962 and opened an independent specialist off-licence in 1995 with a second shop in 1996, and an excellent neighbourhood restaurant in 2008. The shops are brilliantly stocked with an amazing craft beer selection and are a bit of a treasure trove for wine lovers (e.g. watch for Cru Classé Bordeaux). McHughs Malahide Road was refurbished 18 months ago and the McHugh’s drive to to innovate hasn’t abated - they now have a deli, their own beer range called RoadTrip and a pre-mixed full strength cocktail range created by the sommelier of McHughs restaurant in Raheny.
Galvins of Carrigaline meanwhile won the Munster Off-Licence of the year, little surprise given how often Galvins make an appearance in these awards - they are previous winners of the National award. Leinster was won by The Wine Centre Kilkenny, Connacht/Ulster by Dalys Boyle and the Dublin Award by Martin’s Fairview. These shops are worth a detour, expect knowledgeable staff and a range of wines, spirits & beers miles better than in any supermarket.
Wine Specialist of the year was Jus De Vine Portmarnock, no surprise given the massive range stocked by Tommy and Julie Cullen, a father-daughter team of long standing - the shop feels like their own private cellar. The Spirit Specialist winner was the Vintry Rathgar, while the Beer Specialist winner was the excellent CarryOut Tramore, and O'Donovan's Cork won Responsible Retailer of the Year.
All the wines this week are exclusive to your local Independent Off-Licence; building a relationship with your local wine merchant is an investment in pleasure and harmonious living, as important as your relationship with your butcher, hairdresser and doctor.
I’m featuring this wine because it is a former winner of best white under €10 in the NOffLA Gold Star Awards, and because it is better than almost all Supermarket white wine at the same price. Tropical passionfruit and pineapple mixed with lemon oil - textured and fruity with balancing freshness and tang.
If there is a better Riesling under €15 out there I haven’t found it, and this is usually around €12. Classic lemon and apple aromas with a mineral-salty edge, textured, zingy and dry with some softer apple and kiwi fruit flavours on the finish. The Baer Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc are also worth trying.
This Rioja won Wine of the Year at the NOffLA Gold Star Awards and shops like McHughs and others struggled to keep it in stock this past Christmas. Bright red fruit aromas, darker fruits and spice on the palate - balanced, textured, complex, and supremely drinkable. A classic
This is owned by Rioja Vega (see above) and is simply gorgeous, it will remind you why we fell in love with Albariño in the first place. White peach and tropical fruit aromas, textured and layered with rounded apple, pear and peach fruit flavours and balancing salty freshness on the finish.
One of Italy’s most consistently delicious white wines, and not available in supermarkets. From the pretty hillsides of Verona looking towards Lake Garda, this is aromatic and floral with lively lemon and creamy almond notes, layered, complex and fine. Try with risotto.
Alois Lageder are organic and sustainable viticulture pioneers and have been biodynamic since the ‘90s. This was Cathal McHugh’s first choice when I asked for recommended wines - ‘it's just so etherially light and elegant, and such better value than anything from Burgundy’ he told me. He is not wrong, this is beautifully pure and complex.
It’s about time I mentioned Boatyard from Co. Fermanagh. Besides this excellent Double Gin watch for Sloe Boat Gin, Uncle Tom PX infused Gin and Vodka. The ‘Double’s base spirit is organic wheat based and macerated for 18 hours with 18 botanicals. ‘Double’ refers to the distillation process which involves double contact with the Juniper (86%).
On the nose this is very juniper forward with some herbal and citrus background notes; and on the palate this is bone-dry with pleasing lemon-pith, spiky juniper flavours and a touch of pepper - perfectly designed to cut through your tonic or mixer of choice. A gin for grownups.
