Wine with Leslie: These are the cheap wines that I like to drink 

Stick to lesser-known regions and don’t be afraid of grapes you have never heard of
Wine with Leslie: These are the cheap wines that I like to drink 

Sherries plus classical French wines that represent value in their price bracket.

In keeping with Weekend magazine’s timely focus on the cost of living, I am recommending wines I consider to be particularly good value.

The least expensive tastiest wines in Ireland come from Spain, Portugal, and the Languedoc. Stick to lesser-known regions and don’t be afraid of grapes you have never heard of — especially from Portugal. Chile offers wonderful value at entry level and Chilean sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon are always a solid bet.

Another option is to drink a little less but to drink better. As you may have seen me mention before, the wine with the best price-to-quality ratio is sherry. I realise people still think of sherry as sweet but any good off licence will also stock a range of dry Fino and Manzanilla sherries which work with most of the same foods as sauvignon blanc but have the advantage of lasting for a week or more in the fridge. Oloroso and Amontillado keep for months.

Fino and Manzanilla are aged in barrels under a fluffy white yeast called flor which allows the wine to oxidate gently. It is this partial oxidation that allows Fino to keep once opened, and gives the wine its characteristic yeasty tang. I should mention Fino may taste odd the first time you try it but please persist; you didn’t give up on stout after the first taste.

Once Fino is removed from flor it can be further fortified and aged to become an Amontillado which is also dry (with rare exceptions). Oloroso sherry never sees flor ageing and is usually fortified to around 20% with a richer more viscous texture.

Sherry’s complicated ageing process in the Solera system ensures extra complexity. Sweet sherry is a blend of dry Oloroso with intensely sweet PX sherry made from dried grapes and also have their place, especially lighter styles such as Lustau’s East India Solera and GB’s Apostoles.

I include three Sherries plus classical French wines that represent value in their price bracket. Bordeaux had a run of good years recently with 2015, 2016, and 2018 particularly recommended even from small Château.

Wines Under €15

Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, 75cl
Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, 75cl

Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, 75cl - €12.50-17.00

Stockist: Dunnes Stores

Tio Pepe is on offer in Dunnes Stores for the bargain price of €12.50 (SuperValu have it at €14), and will keep in the fridge for at least a week. Tio Pepe may be ubiquitous but it remains a benchmark — lemon zest, brioche, and salty olive aromas, bone dry with lingering ozone and preserved lemon. Perfect for Fish & Chips.

Toro Albalá ‘Marqués de Poley’ Oloroso, Sherry, Spain
Toro Albalá ‘Marqués de Poley’ Oloroso, Sherry, Spain

Toro Albalá ‘Marqués de Poley’ Oloroso, Sherry, Spain 50cl - €13.95

Stockist: O’Briens Stores nationwide www.obrienswine.ie

This is reduced from €20 and I also recommend their Fino, PX and Amontillado. From Spain’s other fortified wine region Montilla-Moriles north of Malaga — bone dry and pouring a light gold colour with roasted nuts, caramel, lemon peel, and layers of complex flavours — try with pâté, soups or on its own. Keeps for weeks.

Château Béchereau Bordeaux Supérieur 2019, France
Château Béchereau Bordeaux Supérieur 2019, France

Château Béchereau Bordeaux Supérieur 2019, France - €11.20

Stockist: Dunnes Stores

There are two Bordeaux called Béchereau in Dunnes’ French Wine sale, this is the cheaper of the two but both are recommended. Aromas of berries and spice with pleasing ripe fruits and good length for the price. The Béchereau from Montaigne Saint-Émilion (€13.60) is weightier with riper fruits, soft chocolate notes and a pleasing soft berry character.

Wines Over €15

Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Spain
Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Spain

Lustau East India Solera Sherry, Spain, 50cl - €22-23.00

Stockists: Bradleys Cork, O’Briens, McCambridges, Wine Centre Kilkenny, Country Choice, Greenacres, Mitchell & Son.

Yes, this has some sweetness so matches chocolate, desserts and salty cheese — but glass after dinner makes for a delightful luxury. Made from 80% dry Oloroso and 20% PX, aromas of Moscatel raisins and baked nuts, are elegant and complex with sweetness countered by dried berries and acidity.

Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja 2015, Spain
Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja 2015, Spain

Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja 2015, Spain - €16.95

Stockist: O’Briens

This is normally €35 and represents excellent value for a Gran Reserva Rioja  —you will struggle to find good Rioja Reserva under €20 these days. From 100% Tempranillo grapes sourced in Rioja Alta, this has all you would expect from a mature Rioja — meaty red and black fruits, cedar, vanilla and spice, and pleasing mature fruit flavours that linger and linger.

Domaine Marguerite Carillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2014, Burgundy
Domaine Marguerite Carillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2014, Burgundy

Domaine Marguerite Carillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2014, Burgundy - €48

Stockist: Dunnes Stores

I know I promised bargains but in the context of eight-year-old Premier Cru Côte d'Ôr Burgundy this is good value. Reduced from €60 in Dunnes' French Wine Sale which runs into October. Red fruit tinged with forest floor aromas, weighty and full, supple and complex with pleasing layers and fine length.

Beer of the Week

Hope Brewing Munich Helles, 5.3% ABV, 440ml
Hope Brewing Munich Helles, 5.3% ABV, 440ml

Hope Brewing Munich Helles, 5.3% ABV, 440ml - €3.75

Stockists: O’Briens, World Wide Wines, Sweeneys, McHughs, Molloys, Independents, CraftCentral.ie, TheBeerClub.ie, HopeBeer.ie

Hope Brewing launched two new Limited Editions to coincide with the Big Grill Fest but made enough to release some into the Independent trade. The Hope Double Rye IPA (8.5% ABV) pours a rich amber and is packed with Centennial and other hops (including dry-hopping) — intense grapefruit and orange flavours and lots of hop bitterness (IBU: 70).

This Munich Helles has arrived just in time for Oktoberfest (which begins in Munich on Saturday). Hoppy and aromatic with rich malt flavours and a light floral touch. Pleasing body and weight perfect for matching with pretzels or with a burger and fries.

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