Wine with Leslie: Wines to transport you abroad

Find the perfect wine for your bank holiday weekend
From a fruity New Zealand Rosé to a floral fruity Greek Agiorgitiko red — these wines will transport you to warmer climates.

From a fruity New Zealand Rosé to a floral fruity Greek Agiorgitiko red — these wines will transport you to warmer climates.

Last week I wrote about organic and biodynamic wines and mentioned a couple of ‘natural’ wines with approval. 

I admit when natural wines arrived here (2014 is the first I can remember), I was sceptical. Not of the production methods exactly but of the religious zeal with which they were being promoted, as though the philosophy behind the wine was more important than the taste. Philosophy should never be as important as taste with wine.

Natural wine, of course, frequently tastes delicious but so do classic wines and we should always keep our minds open to all styles. This weekend I’m going to find out if the general public agrees with me and my sidekick David Whelehan of Whelehan’s Wines. At Grub Circus at the All Together Now Festival in Waterford, we will be pitting some classic wines against some of the new kids at an event entitled ‘Natural Born Killers’ led by Joe McNamee of this parish (Joe has curated the full Grub Circus programme).

If you are not going to make it to the festival, I’ve recommended a couple of the wines below — a tropical and citrus-flavoured Graves Blanc from the gravelly soils south of the city of Bordeaux, and a luscious complex red Burgundy from the Côte Chalonnaise, one of the last of the affordable Burgundy villages.

As it is a bank holiday weekend I also have some other wines to transport you to foreign climes with a fruity New Zealand Rosé, a floral fruity Greek Agiorgitiko red and a couple of dessert wines to match all those ripe late summer fruits in stores now.

Lidl had Greek specials in store recently, so once again they have their Mavrodaphne and Muscat of Samos back in stock — probably the two the best-value stickies in the country. Samos in the Eastern Aegean has been famed for its wines since antiquity, while Mavrodaphni is both a grape and a fortified wine style native to the Achaea region of the Northern Peleponnese. Fermented oxidatively, the latter is fortified with grape spirit before the end of fermentation (likeport), and then added to a Solera system for ageing.

Wine Under €15

Lidl Muscat of Samos, Samos, Greece
Lidl Muscat of Samos, Samos, Greece

Lidl Muscat of Samos, Samos, Greece — €9.49

Stockist: Lidl

From the cool north-facing slopes of mountain vineyards on the island of Samos near Turkey, this has delightful floral muscat aromas with a touch of orange-flower oil- honeyed tangerine and yellow peaches on the palate but with some lively tang and acidity on the finish. Serve chilled with summer fruits or a fruit salad — apricots, peaches or strawberries will all work — or perhaps a summer trifle.


                        Lidl Mavrodaphni of Patras, Peleponnese, Greece
Lidl Mavrodaphni of Patras, Peleponnese, Greece

Lidl Mavrodaphni of Patras, Peleponnese, Greece — €8.99

Stockist: Lidl

Mavrodaphne of Patras was first created in the 19th Century, based loosely on Port (but also including a Solera system of ageing like Sherry. I admit I have a sweet tooth but I found this charming, lighter than Port with ripe black cherries that put me in mind of proper Bavarian black forest gateaux. Fruity and luscious with lively sweet cherries balanced by freshness. Serve cool with chocolates (e.g. Grá) or with summer fruits.

Lidl Duck Point Rosé, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Lidl Duck Point Rosé, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

Lidl Duck Point Rosé, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand — €8.99

Stockist: Lidl

This arrived in Lidl stores in the last week or so along with a Central Otago Pinot Noir - a quality region you rarely find in supermarkets. Very pale salmon pink with aromas of raspberry and peach, fruity and fresh with a light tang of acidity — serve well chilled. The Outlook Bay Pinot Noir (€11.99) meanwhile is packed with red fruit aromas and spicy darker fruits on the palate — serve cool for best results.

Wine Over €15


                        Dom. Papagiannakos ‘Erythros’ Agiorgitiko-Cab-Sauv, 2018, Attika, Greece
Dom. Papagiannakos ‘Erythros’ Agiorgitiko-Cab-Sauv, 2018, Attika, Greece

Dom. Papagiannakos ‘Erythros’ Agiorgitiko-Cab-Sauv, 2018, Attika, Greece — €17.99

Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, McHughs, Pinto Wines, Vintry, Corkscrew, Kellys, Blackrock Cellar, Food Store Claremorris, Barnhill Stores

From Attika in Central Greece, this is 70% Agiorgitiko (St. George’s Grape) with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon to add heft and richness to the floral blackberry character of the Agiorgitiko (Greece’s most widely planted grape). Brambles and dark cherry aromas and flavours with pleasing soft dark fruits on the palate balanced by freshness and some cherry skin textures.

Château Crabitey Graves 2019, Bordeaux, Franc
Château Crabitey Graves 2019, Bordeaux, Franc

Château Crabitey Graves 2019, Bordeaux, France — €24.00

Stockist: Whelehans Wineswww.whelehanswines.ie

This is one of the classic wines myself and David Whelehan will be showing at Grub Circus this weekend — chosen to focus on flavour and layers. A blend of 70% Sauvignon and 30% Sémillon with citrus, apple, guava and other tropical aromas, textured and complex with lively freshness and pleasing weigh and length and a beguiling finish that offers freshness as well as length.


                        Les Hértiers Saint Genys ‘Clos Marcilly 1er Cru’, Mercurey 2019, Burgundy
Les Hértiers Saint Genys ‘Clos Marcilly 1er Cru’, Mercurey 2019, Burgundy

Les Hértiers Saint Genys ‘Clos Marcilly 1er Cru’, Mercurey 2019, Burgundy — €55.00

Stockist: Whelehans Wines www.whelehanswines.ie

So if the crowds at Grub Circus at ‘All Together Now’ don’t vote for this I give up! This is just gorgeous and from a Monopole (single, family-owned, vineyard) planted with old vines (pre 1957). Ripe cherry, blackberry and spice aromas, layered and plush with ripe red fruits mingling with subtle forest floor hints and a long finish that evolves and develops for a full minute (I counted!).

Spirit of the Week


                        Sliabh Liag Midnight Silkie Whiskey
Sliabh Liag Midnight Silkie Whiskey

Sliabh Liag Midnight Silkie Whiskey, 46% ABV, 70cl — €46.00

Stockists: Bradley’s, Carry Out Off Blackpool & Douglas, www.sliabhliagdistillers.com/shop/, Celtic Whiskey Dublin & Killarney www.celticwhiskeyshop.com, Dicey Riley’s Ballyshannon, Independents

Donegal-based Sliabh Liag are busy recreating the taste of 19th-century Donegal whiskies when barley was typically malted over peat. The previous release  — Dark Silkie — was full of sweet apple fruits and pipe tobacco aromas and this takes it up a notch.

The Midnight Silkie is part of the core Silkie collection and is a blend of Single Malts finished in Virgin Oak and Imperial Stout seasoned casks. This has a bold peaty, smoky nose with background notes of muscovado sugar while the palate has sweet apricots, sultanas and spice flavours and a peppery zesty finish. Try it in a Manhattan.

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