Wine with Leslie: The best organic wines at every price point

Modern industrial farming methods are said to contribute up to 29% of global greenhouse gas emissions and grape growing is often worse than other farming sectors.
Sustainability is mentioned on just about every winery website Picture: Pexels/Pixabay

Sustainability is mentioned on just about every winery website Picture: Pexels/Pixabay

As the northern hemisphere bakes and forest fires burn up southern Europe, floods have hit China, Kenya, Australia and Bangladesh. Modern industrial farming methods are said to contribute up to 29% of global greenhouse gas emissions and grape growing is often worse than other farming sectors.

Sustainability is mentioned on just about every winery website I’ve seen, and while I know some are bending the truth I do think the wine world is massively aware of global warming. Bud break is earlier every year which is a big problem as young shoots cannot cope with spring frosts. Hail is a yearly problem in some regions (Bordeaux, for example) with stones the size of golf balls destroying vines. August harvests are now commonplace when mid-September was the norm just 20 years ago, a further problem as a longer growing season usually gives better quality grapes.

Organic growers do not use pesticides and mechanically control weeds. The only spraying is moderate amounts of copper sulphate to prevent mildew (and blight on potatoes) though too much can damage the soil. Grape quality goes up once a vineyard converts to organic but quantities go down so prices tend to rise. Not everyone gets organic certification so don’t always expect a ‘bio’ logo, talk to your wine merchant.

Biodynamic farming based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner (of the Steiner Schools) is the next level. Biodynamics follows the phases of the moon and has some scientifically dubious methods, but grape quality seems to improve further.

I don’t think it is the clockwise stirring (‘dynamising’) of the juice or the cow horns with aged manure buried strategically in the vineyard but the massive attention to detail and increased man hours.

CLIMATE & SUSTAINABILITY HUB

Organic and biodynamic winemaking is increasing rapidly in countries such as Spain but is still comparatively low, just 6-7% globally, 10% in France, with Austria highest at 16%. Does organic taste better? Often, yes, but as usual it depends on the winemaker. See what you think.

Wines Under €15

B-Liv Organic Sauvignon Blanc, Chile  — €9.99

Stockists: Spar, EuroSpar, Mace

B-Liv is a new Organic range in Spar and Mace created by La Celia from Argentina, a producer that I’ve mentioned often. The winery’s focus is on sustainability through renewable energy, green packaging and organic viticulture. There is a crisp rosé and a fruit-driven fairly typical Cabernet Sauvignon, but I particularly liked the lively citrus zingy green apple fruits in this Sauvignon Blanc.

Ciello Rosso, Cantine Rallo Estat, Sicily IGP  — €13.95

Stockist: Bradleys, World Wide Wines, Baggot St. Wines, Green man, Winehouse, Le Caveau www.lecaveau.ie

Ciello Bianco featured here a few weeks ago but the last time I mentioned the Rosso it was a different vintage — the current vintage seems even juicier. From organic Nero d’Avola grapes, ripe red fruits mixed with lightly smoky darker ones and notes of chocolate and liquorice. I drank a bottle of this lightly chilled on a sunny terrace recently and it was perfect.

Sculo del Vigneto Corvina Veronese IGP, Veneto, Italy  — €14.95

Stockists: McCurtain St. Wine Cellar, Kass & Co Waterford, Opera Deli Wicklow Town, Sheridans Cheesemongers, SIYPS.com

This was created by La Scuola nel Vigneto, a social-educational project created to promote sustainable Valpolicella winemaking traditions. I love Valpolicella/Bardolino and Corvina-based wines at this time of year— aromas of red cherries with spice notes, rounded and fruit-driven with juicy, red and black fruits — suitable for chilling. The Garganega is similarly crisp and zingy with a lip-smacking freshness.

Wines Over €15

La Fage La Rétro, Côtes Catalanes, France — €18.95 - €19.94
Stockists: O’Donovans, JJ O’Driscolls, Basil Market & Deli Cork, Baggot St. Wines, Barnhill Stores, Wineonline.ie

This wine was originally kept for the family as their ‘house wine’ as it came from grapes picked at the end of the harvest from the cooler slopes and from a co-fermented field blend of grapes. Bright juicy blackberry fruits, supple and lively with a delightful glou-glou (gluggable) character perfect for summer — serve cool. Note the ABV is just 12.5%.

Domaine Gassier 'Garrigues' Syrah-Grenache, Costières de Nîmes, France  — €19.49

Stockists: JJ O'Driscalls; 1601 Kinsale; Deveney Dundrum; Sweeny’s D3: D-Six, Cashel Wine Cellar.

Costières de Nîmes is the most southerly region of the Rhône, not far from where the Rhône meets the sea so think wetlands and Provence-style Garrigue. Gassier are organic pioneers with a deep commitment to sustainability. This is 80% Syrah co-fermented with 20% Grenache and packed with bright plum fruits with black cherry skins and spice notes on the finish — serve cool.

Alois Lageder ‘Classic’ Lagrein, Alto Adige, Italy  — €27.99

Stockists: Redmonds Ranelagh; DrinkStore Stoneybatter; JJ O'Driscals; Martins Fairview; Blackrock Cellar

Alois Lageder are among Italy’s OG sustainable organic producers who have been biodynamic since the ‘90s. Lagrein is native to the region, a descendent of Teroldego and a cousin of Pinot Noir. Bright berry fruit aromas mixed with red vine liquorice and strawberries — ripe red fruits hit the palate first followed by pleasing layers of spice and darker mineral-edged fruits on the finish with pleasing layers and textures.

Spirit of the Week

Tipperary Distillery Fairy Tree Gin, 40% ABV, 50cl  — €35.00

Stockists: Celtic Whiskey Shop, or via www.tipperarydistillery.com

Tipperary Distillery is firmly focused on terroir especially given that the distillery is located on a family farm that grows its own barley — I’ve praised their whiskies a few times. This gin is made from their own barley but also includes some foraged hawthorn leaves from the hedgerows (but not too many lest that upset the little folk!).

Juniper forward with lemon and spice notes (cardamom and nutmeg I thought) — smooth on first sip but lively spice notes kick in quickly on the mid-palate with a pleasing nuttiness (from the hawthorn leaves). The finish is crisp with lingering spice and citrus and its lively character will be dulled by tonic. Gorgeous.

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