Darina Allen: A celebration of the humble spud
This week’s column is a celebration of the potato — the super versatile, super nutritious and super cool tuber often referred to as the humble spud.
Somehow, despite its many virtues, the potato has managed to acquire a frumpy image. Several recent surveys indicate that potatoes sales are down while sales of rice, pasta and noodles have risen significantly.
Millennials are opting for microwavable options and see potatoes as a bit of a ‘faff to cook’. Many it seems to prefer microwavable rice (although far more expensive) — I didn’t even know such a thing existed but apparently the market is now worth millions.
Well call me old fashioned but the potato is still my number one vegetable, it’s certainly not just ‘a bit on the side’.
I’m still a dedicated aficionado for more reasons than I can mention, not least its nutrient density and flavour plus it is naturally gluten-free.
Recent research has also shown conclusively that potatoes contain blood pressure-lowering compounds called kukoamines and a range of phytonutrients that act as antioxidants.
They are a rich source of vitamin B6, C and B1, both types of fibre and have more potassium than bananas — good for the brain, no fat, a brilliant source of energy, a slow release food and on and on it goes.
From the cook’s point of view they are a blank canvas for all kinds of flavours. But there are spuds and spuds and variety really matters so try to find some of the old or what are now called heritage varieties in farmers markets and local greengrocers. I snap up local, organically grown potatoes whenever I can find them.
My favourite winter varieties are Golden Wonders and Kerr’s Pinks which grow brilliantly in the soils around the Ballycotton area but also in pockets around the country.
Now I’m back in to the kitchen with bag of floury and a few waxy spuds. So what to do? There are so many delicious way to cook potatoes, they soak up a myriad of flavours, fresh herbs, spices – the flavour of the East, Far East, Mexico, South America from whence they came. They are estimated to be well of over 4,000 native varieties still growing in Peru. You can’t imagine how beautiful and diverse they are, every colour, shape, texture – like jewels.
In Ireland, the most traditional way to cook potatoes is to boil them and I am rarely without a few leftover boiled spuds in my fridge. They’re a brilliant standby and the basis of so many tasty filling supper dishes.
However, a word about boiling potatoes. They can be bland and virtually tasteless or full of flavour depending on the variety and the way they are cooked.
They need plenty of salt in the water and to be cooked in their jackets. I add a tablespoon to two pints, better still use sea water. If you happen to be near the coast or are out for a Sunday drive. Go for a paddle and bring a container of seawater with contains a host of other minerals and trace elements as well as salt.
As you stroll across the beach maybe pick up some kelp, add a piece to the pot for extra flavour and nutrients and bring a bag of mixed seaweed home to add to the soil in your garden.
Elizabeth’s Cheesy Potatoes
This was one of my sister Elizabeth’s favourite recipes when she was a penniless student but it continues to be one of our favourite recipes, loved by all the family of every age.
1lb (450g) left over boiled potatoes, peeled and dice into 1 inch (2cm) dice
Third of a pint (150ml) whole milk
4ozs (110g) Irish Cheddar cheese, grated
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Greased pie dish — 1 pint (600ml) capacity
Put the diced potatoes into a saucepan, add the cold milk, season with freshly ground pepper and salt. Stir over a low heat until the potatoes have absorbed the milk, then add 3ozs (85g) grated cheese and stir gently, then turn into a pie dish. Sprinkle the remaining 1oz (30g) grated cheese over the top.
Cook in a heated oven 180C/350F/regulo 4, until nicely brown on top, approx. 20 minutes.
Note: Some potatoes will absorb more milk than others, if the mixture looks a little dry, add a little more milk. Delicious served with fish.
This recipe can be varied a little by adding some chopped cooked smoked ham or rasher, or a little sautéed onion.
Rustic Roast Potatoes
These are my children’s favourite kind of roast spuds. They particularly love all the crusty skin.
6 large ‘old’ potatoes eg Golden Wonder or Kerr’s Pinks
Olive oil or beef dripping (unless for vegetarians) — duck or goose fat are
also delicious
Sea salt
Heat the oven to 230C/450F/regulo 8. Scrub the potatoes well, cut into quarters lengthways or cut into thick rounds ¾ inch (2cm) about.
Put into a roasting tin, drizzle with olive oil and toss so they are barely coated with olive oil. Roast in a heated oven for 30-45 minutes depending on size.
Sprinkle with sea salt and serve in a hot terracotta dish.
18 garlic cloves
Proceed as above, add the garlic after the potatoes have been cooking for 10-15 minutes. Toss in the oil.
Keep an eye on the garlic cloves, they will probably be cooked before the potatoes. If so, remove and keep warm in a serving dish.
Press the soft sweet garlic out of the skins and eat with the crispy potatoes.
Potato Spring Onion Salad
900g freshly cooked potatoes - diced;
1.1kg raw potatoes
1 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp chopped chives or scallions or
2 teaspoons chopped onion
110ml French dressing
110ml homemade mayonnaise
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
lots of nasturtium leaves and red, orange and yellow nasturtium
flowers (75-110g)
The potatoes should be boiled in their jackets and peeled, diced and measured while still hot. Mix immediately with onion, parsley, salt and freshly ground pepper.
Stir in the French dressing, allow to cool and finally add the mayonnaise. Toss in the coarsely chopped nasturtium leaves and two-thirds of the flowers.
Best served fresh but keeps well for about two days.
Potato and Pecorino Frittata
I love the flavour of pecorino.
With eggs and new potatoes it gives the dish a real depth of flavour. However, Parmesan would be a good alternative. The fritatta is great for a picnic or cut into neat squares and serve as a pre-dinner nibble or canapé.
450g new potatoes or leftover potatoes
2 tbsp light olive oil
1 small onion, finely sliced
6 free-range eggs
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives
140g pecorino finely grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 15-20 minutes until tender to the point of a knife. Allow to cool slightly, then cut into chunky slices.
Heat a heavy-based non-stick frying pan big enough to take all the ingredients. Add the onions and cook for 4-5 minutes until soft and beginning to brown.
Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs and chives. Season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper then add the cheese and whisk again. Heat the grill to moderately hot.
Add the potato slices to the onions and then pour over the egg mixture. Cook over a low heat until the edges are beginning to firm up and the frittata is lightly set. This may take up to 10 minutes.
Finally place under the grill. Don’t place the pan too close to the heat or it will burn on top before the centre is cooked. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the eggs are set and the top is a lovely golden colour.
Serve hot or cold. This would be delicious with a mixed leaf and tomato salad.
Note: Alternatively cook in a heated at 160C for 10 to 12 minutes.
Traditional Irish Jacket Potatoes
Here is the best way to cook old varieties, so they don’t dissolve into a mush before they are fully cooked. It’s not at all traditional, but a Chinese steamer over a wok (with well-salted water underneath) works really well and the potatoes remain intact.
Many people now peel potatoes before they boil them, however, it’s worth remembering that they have considerably more flavour if you cook them in their jackets.
Plus, there’s less waste, and most of the nutrients are just underneath the skin.
900g (2lb) ‘old’ potatoes such as
Golden Wonders, Kerr’s Pink or Red
Duke of York
Salt (3 teaspoons of salt to every
1.2 litres (2 pints) water)
Put the potatoes in a deep saucepan, cover with fresh, cold water and add salt. Cover and bring to the boil and continue to cook over a medium heat about 15 minutes, until half-cooked. Pour off most of the water, leaving about 2.5cm (1 inch) liquid in the saucepan.
Reduce the heat, cover and leave the potatoes to steam for the remainder of the cooking time, at least a further 15 minutes, until a skewer goes through the centre easily.
Put into a hot serving dish and serve with lots of good butter or a terrificolive oil (rather than on top) and some flaky sea salt.
Hot tips
Bring your windfall apples to Ballymaloe Cookery School today and next, October 27 (12pm to 4pm). Press your own juice, take it home to freeze, pasteurise or make cider (bring your own containers), 021 464 6785.
Caroline Robinson is giving a talk on soil at the Nano Nagle Place Conference Centre, Douglas Street, Cork, today at 4pm. This talk is hosted by Shep Earth Aware and is part of the Cork Harvest Festival.
Caroline will talk about what is happening to our soil in this country, she will give an account of the wonder and miracle of soil from her own experience as a grower of chemical-free vegetables in Cork for the last 20 years.
The talk is open to the public and is free of charge.
This half-day course on November 2 at 2pm, draws on Darina’s travels.
She’ll share some of her new favourite dishes from around the world, taking the pleasure of brunch to new levels.
Don’t miss or perhaps give a gift token to a friend or loved one, see www.cookingisfun.ie.
