Restaurant review: The Linden Tree, Co Kildare

THERE’S a brilliant scene in Woody Allen’s 1980 movie Stardust Memories where he is sitting in a stationary train carriage, his companions doleful — harried refugees straight out of a Diane Arbus photoshoot.

He looks across the railway tracks and sees another train, except here the carriages are filled with party people, champagne glasses in hand, abundant smiles. A woman catches his glance, and plants a kiss on the window, almost willing him to join her.

At this point, Allen’s reverie is interrupted when a train conductor comes in to check tickets in preparation for the train departing; Allen protests that he is actually on the wrong train, that he should really be on the train to Happy Town, and not the train to Glumsville. But, alas, it’s too late.