December delight
IN my ideal calendar, the Sha-Roe Bistro would illustrate December. Squirreled away in Clonegal, between the Derry River and the Jacobean atmospherics of Huntingdon Castle, here is a dining room whose glowing stove, twinkling glassware and sash windows amount to a deliciously-appointed balance of cosiness and class.
Outside, a plaque tells of Patrick O’Donoghue, a Young Irelander who was born in the 18th century townhouse and went on to fight in the 1848 rebellion, before being exiled to Van Diemen’s Land and dying a pauper in Brooklyn at the age of 44. It’s a chilly, characterful detail.
Inside, by contrast, a beaming Stephanie Barillier welcomes us for Sunday lunch. Two hundred years after he was born, it seems, O’Donoghue’s birthplace has been transformed into a winter warmer whose flickering inglenook and gamey menu will put a glow in the cheeks even before you order. A wine rack is stashed away under the old staircase. A tiny cottage window peeks into the kitchen. The details are pin-sharp.
Barillier’s partner, Henry Stone, is the man behind the menu.
On our visit, his work makes for hearty reading, with French flair complemented by lots of venison, veal and winter vegetables — but also some sparky treatments of tiger prawns, hake and scallops from Dunmore East. All mains come with sides of thinly-sliced roast potatoes and green beans, sprinkled with sesame seeds too.
I’m visiting with the kids, which I don’t do as a rule when reviewing, but here turns into an unexpected plus. Rather than offering token chicken nuggets or sausages, Stephanie suggests we try half-portions of anything we like, including starters. It’s a brilliant idea — meaning we get to sample six dishes between us, in tasting-style portions. It should be patented!
To start, we go for a charcuterie plate that includes a buttery-soft chicken liver pate, a chunky venison terrine and a confit of duck terrine — all beautifully presented on a long plate, with spoonfuls of crab-apple jelly working as a seductive sweetener to the meats. A slice of Wicklow brie reminds us that Irish diners no longer need to fritter away food miles eating good cheese.
Black tiger prawns and crab are served in a Thai-style coconut sauce with egg noodles — a delicate curry that doesn’t allow its spices or creaminess to out-muscle the shellfish. Stone’s bouillabaisse sees chunks of monkfish and cod simmering in a smoky French broth infused with tomatoes, onions and Provencal herbs, although a tad too much fennel for our liking.
We also get the most wonderful little bread buns, still warm from the oven.
Of the main courses, a pan-fried fillet of hake is topped with sweet Chantenay carrots, scallops are sweetly seared and laid atop of a dill and courgette risotto, and a plate of gorgonzola-stuffed ravioli, peppered with mushrooms, parmesan and a splash of truffle oil is a minor revelation — showing just how satisfying and refined good pasta can be. Too much of the pasta served in Irish restaurants is bought-in, overcooked and lathered in cream.
By the time desserts come around, we’re royally stuffed. We still make room, however, for a few scoops of ice-cream and a banana, chocolate and almond pithivier with peanut ice-cream and caramel sauce. The chocolate marquise (the original death-by-chocolate) may be too heavy for young palates, our waitress says, so the puff-pastry tart seems a lighter option.
The Sha-Roe Bistro is a genuine hidden gem. Smartly furnished, carefully staffed, over-achieving and under-the-radar, it’s utterly deserving of its Michelin Bib Gourmand.
I’m noting it down for a return visit — perhaps to enjoy the chef’s table, or to see what Stone will come up with in spring or summer. The small dining room seats just 28, so advance booking is a must, but even then, it feels stumbled-upon (right down to the lack of a website).
Afterwards, we stand by the water near Clonegal’s stone-arched bridge, watching as ducks zoom across the River Derry to tap us for some bread.
Sadly for them, we’ve devoured the lot.
Sunday lunch costs 33.50pp. Tip extra.
Dinner, Wednesday to Sunday, from 7pm; lunch, Sunday only from 12.30pm to 2.30pm
Food: 8/10
Service: 7/10
Ambience: 7/10
Value: 7/10
Wine: 6/10
