Dublin: A golden goose

IT isn’t easy for a restaurant to go against the grain. However adventurous we get with different styles of food, be they French, Italian, Indian, Thai, we still eat most of them the same way. Namely, via the Holy Trinity of starters, mains and desserts.
Sure, you’ll get occasional variations. Tapas seem obvious, but despite Irish ingredients being very suited to this way of eating, the Spanish system is one we’ve been slow to embrace at home. Tasting menus also come to mind — but they’re mostly the preserve of high-end dining rooms.