Joe McNamee: How a glut of greens became a good news story

Everyone should endeavour to support local growers of fresh, seasonal Irish produce, which can still be enjoyed without melting yourself in the kitchen

Founder Kenneth Keavy pictured holding Green Earth Organics summer essentials grocery box. Picture: Kirsty Lyons

A vegan friend was visiting and I was determined to feed him well. That included a courgette carpaccio, a divinely simple yet simply divine dish: raw courgette, sliced wafer-thin on a mandoline, dressed with premium extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, salt, fresh herbs and grated parmesan. I even bought vegan ‘parmesan’ for his portion, though I usually avoid meat or dairy substitutes. Sourcing a locally grown courgette was another story. With none yet available in my neck of the woods, I reluctantly ponied up for an imported French courgette. Had I been in Galway, it would have been an entirely different matter.

Kenneth Keavey began Green Earth Organics in Corrandulla, Co Galway, in May 2006, growing on a quarter-acre site and selling locally. Today it is an inspirational 28-acre farm, supplying superb organic produce boxes nationwide for home delivery by courier. Last week, however, Kenneth was forced into a desperate online plea to shift half a tonne of courgettes, six months of hard labour and expense that would end up on the compost pile if he couldn’t find buyers.

It is ironic that, as the growing season reaches its zenith in high summer, sales of fresh produce often fall off. Schools are out, the foreign holiday season is in full swing, and the eating patterns of those of us still here are changing, especially when it comes to avoiding the kitchen. However, the heatwave had exacerbated all these factors to the Nth degree, and so Kenneth found himself crying into the digital wilderness. Turns out it is not such a wilderness, thanks in no small part to the strenuous efforts he has put in over the years building up the business, including a very strong online presence, invaluable to growing an enterprise that now employs 45 people at the height of the season. Such was the overwhelming response, from regulars and new customers alike, that the Green Earth Organics online shop briefly crashed.

The orders were eventually processed and the day was saved, a good news story in a world sorely needing them. However, it is not a permanent solution to an ongoing problem for small and medium-scale growers around the country. Beef and dairy farming remain the golden children, receiving supports and subsidies the horticulture sector can only dream of, and the number of Irish field-scale horticultural producers has dropped from 400 in the late 1990s to approximately 70. That includes some ten-plus organic and chemical-free growers, the only cohort to provide new entrants to the sector over the last 30 years.

One of Kenneth’s primary motivations for starting Green Earth Organics was to highlight sustainable growth and increase the wellbeing of the land, learning how that could be done through growing food. Kenneth admits that drive kept them going through constant challenges that have shut down so many conventional growers.

“However,” he told me some days later, “we are too frequently in situations like last week, trying to make it work against the odds, trying to sell that produce, so it becomes very difficult to celebrate the art of what we do, growing with no chemicals and turning relatively poor soil — to hell or Connacht and all that — into healthy, nutrient-rich land.”

In September, Kenneth will stage the inaugural Green Earth Organics Sustainability Festival (Sept 12) on the farm to celebrate 20 years of growing. Speakers include Darina Allen, Mick ‘GIY’ Kelly, JP McMahon and UK sustainability chef and food writer Tom Hunt, along with farm walks, cookery demos, food trucks and live music. You can even do your weekly shopping and head home with boxes of superb organic Irish produce. Kenneth had this to say:

It is very hard to see the farm as a good news story when you are under financial duress, so we wanted to gather people with similar mindsets and ambitions.

“More than anything, the planet needs positivity and sanity — the festival will be a chance to show good things can still happen and hopefully inspire others.”

Even if you don’t make the festival, do at least endeavour to support local growers of fresh, seasonal Irish produce, which can still be enjoyed without melting yourself in the kitchen — courgette carpaccio can even be prepared outdoors, sitting under a parasol, sipping a cold beer. Now, that’s my idea of sustainable Irish summer cooking!

Table Talk

JP McMahon (Aniar) comes to Waterford (September 5) as part of the Harvest Festival to join chef-owner Luis Martin in his lovely little Mara Restaurant for a collaborative 11-course tasting menu, exploring their shared passion for local produce, and Spanish food and wine. Mara is a delightful but tiny restaurant, so get in early with those bookings.

• marawaterford.com

A friend looking to break the drive from Belfast to Cork after a holiday up north came looking for recommendations for a nice hotel with good food to break up the journey. I could look no further than The Station House Hotel in Kilmessan, Co Meath, on 12 acres of beautiful gardens and woodlands. With the option of outdoor dining on either of two lovely terraces, their current ‘Taste the Garden’ overnight package fits the bill perfectly, including a complimentary glass of wine, dinner, and B&B. There is also an upcoming Midweek Departures series with hands-on workshops, wellness experiences, and artisan activities, but, frankly, that sounds like the start of an entirely new holiday rather than the coda to one just finished.

• stationhousehotel.ie

Today’s Special

Killeen Extra Mature Goat’s Cheese, by Marion Roeleveld in Portumna, Co Galway,was crowned Supreme Champion at the 10th Artisan Cheese Awards in Melton Mowbray, England. Picture: Martin Elliott

When it came to adding cheese to my portion of the above-mentioned courgette carpaccio, I shaved gossamer wisps of Killeen Extra Mature Goat’s Cheese, made by one of Ireland’s finest cheesemakers, Marion Roeleveld, in Portumna, Co Galway, and recently crowned Supreme Champion at the 10th Artisan Cheese Awards in Melton Mowbray, England.

And then, for dessert, I ate more of this exquisite creation, a rich lactic umami with a sweet finish that was not unlike salted caramel.

• killeenfarmhousecheese.wordpress.com