Darina Allen: The best Ballymaloe starters to enjoy on Christmas Day

Some of Darina Allen's seafood starters

We definitely want something light and deliciously refreshing. How about a platter of oysters nestled on a bed of glistening seaweed with some crushed ice to keep them nicely chilled?

Native Irish oysters are a special luxurious treat. They could be from Rossmore in the estuary of Cork Harbour, Kelly’s of Galway, Harty’s in Dungarvan Bay or Carlingford Oysters in Co Louth.

Each has its own unique flavour and needs no further embellishment other than perhaps a tiny squeeze of juice from an organic lemon.

The curvy Portuguese oysters can take on lots of flavours. How about these rock oysters with Asian vinaigrette?

Order them ahead to be delivered by courier and keep them well refrigerated until needed. 

I just love the way they arrive in those timber boxes, often packed with bladderwrack seaweed and if you’re lucky it’ll include an oyster knife too, an essential tool to open oysters.

I also love the super fresh combination of watercress with blood oranges, Medjool dates, Macroom mozzarella and chopped pistachio nuts. 

You can do lots of riffs on the combination, maybe omit the dates and add a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds instead. 

They’re also delicious for vegetarians and if you remove the cheese, you’ve got a tempting vegan starter too.

Hopefully, you’ll have had time to make a few pots of chunky soup to have ready to reheat at a moment’s notice. 

There are so many winter roots to choose from, they all make a delicious soup in many combinations, freeze two/portion tubs so you never get caught out. But I’m still wanting a light, fresh and easy-to-combine starter before my juicy roast turkey or goose on Christmas Day.

If you’re a bit jaded from mediocre smoked salmon, how about gravlax (you can make your own but Ummera and Woodcock Smokery make a delicious version), or how about some smoked trout or a piece of warm smoked salmon or my absolute favourite smoked eel.

Really good smoked fish needs little in the way of embellishment either although I do love some horseradish cream with smoked trout, a juicy smoked mackerel and of course smoked eel.

Once again, a simple combo can be put together in minutes. All are delicious with the Ballymaloe brown yeast bread which can be made in minutes, (the recipe is in The New Ballymaloe Bread Book). 

There’s no kneading involved and only one rising. Make four loaves together, it’ll keep for the best part of a week over the Christmas period.

Smoked eel from the Burren Smokehouse or Lough Neagh Fisherman’s Co-operative is recognised as the largest producer of wild caught eel in Europe. 

Check out Goatsbridge Trout Farm in Co Kilkenny for trout, be sure to get a jar of trout roe. Just gorgeous as an extra treat to top off little canapés.

Happy Christmas to all our readers and remember, the way to everyone’s heart is through delicious dinners all year long.

Locally Smoked Fish Plate

recipe by:Darina Allen

We have fantastic smoked fish in Ireland. Artisan Smokers like Sally Barnes of Woodcock Smokery in West Cork, Frank Hederman of Belvelly, near Cobh, Anthony Cresswell of Ummera have developed a cult following for their wild smoked Irish salmon and other f

Servings

4

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• For the main plate:

• a selection of smoked fish, such as smoked salmon, smoked mackerel, smoked trout, smoked eel, smoked tuna, smoked hake and smoked sprats

• For the garnish:

• segments of lemon

• sprigs of watercress or rocket leaves

• For the sauces and sides:

• Mustard and Dill Mayonnaise

• 1 large egg yolk, preferably free range

• 2 tbsp French mustard

• 1 tbsp white sugar

• 150ml groundnut or sunflower oil

• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar

• 1 tbsp dill, finely chopped

• salt and white pepper

• Horseradish Sauce

• 3 - 6 tbsp freshly grated horseradish

• 2 tsp white wine vinegar

• 1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

• ¼ tsp mustard

• ¼ tsp salt

• lots of freshly ground pepper

• 1 tsp sugar

• 225ml softly whipped cream

• Cucumber and Dill Pickle

• 1kg thinly sliced unpeeled cucumber

• 3 small onions thinly sliced

• 225g granulated sugar

• 1 tbsp salt

• 225ml cider vinegar

• 2 tbsp chopped dill

•  

Method

1. The main plate:

2. Occasionally we serve just three different types of smoked fish, for example salmon, mussels and trout, on tiny rounds of Ballymaloe brown yeast bread, topped with a small frill of fresh Lollo Rosso.

3. A little cucumber pickle goes with the smoked salmon, while a blob of homemade Mayonnaise is delicious with marinated smoked mussels and a dollop of horseradish cream, and a sprig of watercress compliments the pink smoked trout. These three delicious morsels make a perfect light starter.

4. Slice the smoked salmon into thin slices down to the skin. Allow one slice per person. Cut the mackerel into diamond-shaped pieces and divide the trout into large flakes. Skin and slice the eel. Thinly slice the tuna and hake.

5. To serve:

6. Choose four large white plates. Drizzle each plate with mayonnaise and divide the smoked fish between the plates, arranging it appetizingly. Put a blob of horseradish sauce and some cucumber pickle on each plate. Garnish with a lemon wedge and sprigs of watercress or rocket leaves.

7. For the mustard and dill mayo:

8. Whisk the egg yolk with the mustard and sugar, drip in the oil drop by drop whisking all the time, then add the vinegar and fresh dill.

9. For the horseradish sauce:

10. Put the grated horseradish into a bowl with the vinegar, lemon juice, mustard powder, salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar. Fold in the softly whipped cream but do not over mix or it will curdle. The sauce keeps in the fridge for 2-3 days, covered, so that it doesn’t pick up other flavours.

11. For the cucumber and dill pickle:

12. Combine the sliced cucumber, onion and the chopped dill in a large bowl. Mix the sugar, salt, vinegar together and pour over cucumbers. Place in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator and leave for at least 1-2 hours or overnight before using.

13. Keeps well for up to a week in the refrigerator.

Rock Oysters with Asian Vinaigrette

recipe by:Darina Allen

Even though oysters are produced all year round here in Ireland, they too are best in Winter. Unlike the native oysters’ which are only in season during the colder months when there’s ‘an r’ in the spelling.

Servings

8

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Total Time

 15 mins

Course

 Starter

Ingredients

• 24-32 rock oysters

• 4 spring onions, cut at an angle

• 1 red chilli, finely chopped

• 1 clove garlic, crushed

• 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 3 tbsp sesame oil

• 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar

• 2 tbsp mirin

• 2 tbsp soy sauce

• 1 tbsp finely chopped chives

• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated

• To Serve

• fresh seaweed (if available)

• lime segments

Method

1. To make the Asian vinaigrette, mix all the ingredients in a glass jar, seal and shake well.

2. If you can get some, place a little fresh seaweed on each plate.

3. Arrange 3-4 oysters per person on top and spoon a little vinaigrette over each one. Serve with segments of lime.

Watercress, Blood Orange & Macroom Mozzarella Salad

recipe by:Darina Allen

The rich West Cork pasture that the buffalo’s feed on gives the Macroom Mozzarella its quintessentially Irish taste. A few beautiful fresh ingredients put together simply make an irresistible starter.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Total Time

 15 mins

Course

 Side

Ingredients

• 2-3 balls of fresh Macroom Mozzarella

• 2 blood oranges

• a bunch of fresh watercress

• 4 Medjool dates, stoned and quartered lengthways

• 2-3 tbsp Irish honey

• a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil

• some coarsely ground black pepper

• 50g pistachio nuts, roughly chopped

Method

1. With a sharp knife remove the peel and pith from the blood oranges, cut one into 5mm thick slices and segment the other.

2. Just before serving, scatter a few watercress leaves over the base of each plate, slice or tear some mozzarella over the top. Tuck a few orange slices/segments here and there in between the watercress, mozzarella and dates. Drizzle with honey and really good extra virgin olive oil. Scatter with pistachio nuts. Finally add a little coarsely ground fresh black pepper and serve.

Seasonal Journal

Artisan bakeries

Yola’s Artisan Bakery has moved from its original home in Centra in Rosslare, Co. Wexford to a custom-built premises in West Mill North Industrial Estate. 

Jamie Petit has come a long way since 2018 when he sold his crusty sourdough loaves from the boot of his car and later a trailer as the queues lengthened and many with gluten intolerances (not coeliac) realise they can enjoy a totally natural sourdough without ill effects. 

You can watch the bakers work as you queue.

Closer to home, people rave about the breads from The Grumpy Baker in Midleton, Vinilo in Lismore and Dún Artisan Bakery in Dungarvan, Co. Waterford.

As commercial bread continues to deteriorate, the number of artisan bakeries continues to grow and thrive, a good news story for a change…

American toffee brittle

I don’t have much of a sweet tooth but I’m a big fan of American toffee brittle, but I snap it up at the airport on my way home from the US whenever I see it. 

However, I recently chanced upon a brilliant version made here in Ireland made by Claire Keane of Second St. Bake Shop in Carrigaline, Cork. 

Apparently, there are variations including sea salt, hazelnut and peppermint… but I just tasted the original and it was super delicious.

No need to schlep it across the Atlantic anymore.

• secondstreetbakeshop.com

Seaweed

If you can find some fresh seaweed (lots on local beaches – Garryvoe, Youghal, Ballinamona…) such as bladderwrack, dip the fronds into boiling water for a second or two - they will turn bright green. 

Drop it straight into a bowl of iced water to prevent it cooking and to set the colour. 

It will make an attractive garnish, which you could eat if you were very hungry, but it doesn’t taste delicious! 

Use it soon, otherwise it will go slimy.