Wine with Leslie: a taste of Spain even if we can't get there
The Spanish flag, flying
One week into January 2021 and time to think about holidays — I know there is no confirmation we will be allowed abroad this summer, especially to Spain, but I’m determinedly optimistic.
Last year I had planned a trip through France into Northern Spain via Brittany Ferries from Cork to Roscoff with a return journey from Bilbao to Rosslare. I had hoped to drive across Northern Spain on the coast road to Santiago de Compostela and then to linger a little in Rueda, Toro and Ribera del Duero, basing ourselves in Valladolid. Our cancellation vouchers are valid for two years and I suspect we may have to wait until 2022 before we can do this trip, but fingers crossed.
That part of Northern Spain is of interest to me because of the concentration of great wines with Rioja and Ribera del Duero just two hours apart and exciting up and coming regions such as Valdeorras, Bierzo and Toro all accessible. Culturally, I find the north equally interesting with beautiful Santiago, the old royal palaces and Tapas bars of Valladolid and Segovia’s spectacular aqueduct which dates from around 102 AD just a few examples.
If you prefer Southern Spain the wines of Andalucia are improving all the time but the place to visit is of course Jerez and maybe take an excursion to its sister Sherry town Sanlucar on the coast and definitely visit Cadiz. Montilla near Malaga is also interesting and I had one of the best endless tapas lunches of my life in Montilla while I guzzled the local version of Sherry. On that trip we visited a lot of Moorish Spain such as the Mesquite in Cordoba and the Alhambra in Grenada — both are breathtaking and places you need to visit once in your life.
All my selections this week are from Spain with a trio of Albariños and some good value reds. I predict that in 2021 Spanish wine will grow their share of the Irish market even more — currently at 14%, and only Chile outsells Spain, at 27%. What we love about Spanish wine (and Chilean wine to be fair) is the consistency. We know the red fruits will be bright and juicy and that the whites will be dry and crisp and that we can trust regions like Rioja and Rias Baixas. Even if we don’t get to Spain this year at least we will have their wines, not to mention their olive oils, cheeses and chorizo.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, Next Door Patrickswell, Whittys, Caseys Killarney, Kingdom Tralee, winesoftheworld.ie
This is from Martin Codax, a reliable, well-run co-op that pays growers on quality rathre than on the quantity of grapes grown. This has a bit more residual sugar than most Albariño (c.12g) and although its sweetness is balanced by acidity, it is particularly suitable for drinking on its own. Ripe melon and pineapple aromas, peaches and cream on the palate with some crisp lemony freshness on the finish.
Stockists: Spar, EuroSpar and Mace.
Another Albariño from Salnés, the most northerly and most coastal of the five sub-regions of Rias Baixas. This wine has not appeared here before and it is one of the best under €15 Albariños that I’ve tasted in the last year - creamy peaches and lemon pie aromas, textured and fruity on the palate with a zingy crisp salty-fresh finish.
Stockist: SuperValu Exclusive
Campo Viejo Rioja is already a crowd-pleaser and huge seller so the all-female winemaking team has introduced two new wines to the range — a fruity Rias Baixas Albariño and this Winemakers Blend of Bobal, Tempranillo and Garnacha. This is also a crowd-pleaser — juicy and smooth and so packed with ripe fruits I served it cool to bring out a little more freshness.
Stockists: No. 21, 1601 Kinsale, O’Donovans, Martins, La Touche, wineonline.ie
Ribera del Duero producer, Emilio Moro, is innovative and reliable and well worth a visit if we ever get to Spain again — they also have an excellent restaurant attached to their sister winery Cepa 21. This is 100% Tempranillo (Tinta del Pais clone) — big juicy blackberry fruit aromas, textured but supple palate with nice depth and density while retaining its joven freshness.
Stockists: O’Donovans Off-Licences Cork
From the cooler Atlantic Salnés sub-region of Rias Baixas which has many vineyards adjacent to the beach. Ripe peach and apricot aromas mixed with lemon balm, soft and ripe but also refreshing with good fresh acidity on the palate. Albariño works well with spicy foods as well as with seafood — especially shellfish such as clams or mussels cooked with a splash of the same wine.
Stockists: O’Donovans Off-Licences Cork
Most Reserva Rioja aged for five years like this would be pushing €20 so this is fairly priced. I find Rioja’s warming spice and vanilla flavours work well at this time of year and this is fairly classical in style with American oak clearly used. Allspice, black cherry and toasty aromas, supple and fruity with tasty vanilla and darker fruits on the finish.
Devil’s Ladder Belgian Tripel, 11.5% ABV, 440ml - €5.99
Stockists: Bradleys, Craft Central craftcentral.ie, No 21 Off Licences, Baggot Street Wines, Celtic Whiskey Dublin & Killarney, Galvin's, Martin's.
The Munro Series celebrates Ireland’s highest peaks, all over 3,000 ft. This is #6 in the series and celebrates Carrauntoohil and its most common ascent route — the Devil's Ladder. Finished in sherry butts this is a bit of a whopper at 11.5% so could be one for sipping with some Christmas cake. This pours a pale gold with baked banana and tropical fruit aromas, creamy sweet and spiky on the palate with lingering spices and vanilla.
Eight Degrees has also teamed up with nearby coffee roaster Badger & Dodo for a limited edition gift pack Munro Series Cans and a bag of Blackwater Blend Coffee — buy yourself a late Christmas present.
