A gourmet’s guide to East Cork, for a fine food experience
Aherne’s Townhouse & Restaurant, in Youghal, a true icon of East Cork hospitality.
Enjoying the good fortune of being part of Ireland’s most storied food county, East Cork has been working hard on its foodie credentials and is stepping out from behind the shadow of its gourmet bredren, the City and West Cork, to display its rather tempting flavours.
Enjoying an excellent catalogue of food producers, productive farmlands and culinary innovators, East Cork is also home to fantastic restaurants, food festivals, farmers’ markets and pioneering distillers…
A pretty town full of historical houses, cute narrow streets, medieval walls, and a coastline of long, golden beaches, Youghal’s reputation as a great place to visit is back on the radar – and there’s plenty of tasty things to enjoy while you’re there.
While the roastery itself is tucked away, it’s first café location took advantage of the near 1.5km of eco-boardwalk created along Youghal’s sandy beach front. In the town, a café at Claycastle Beach capitalises on the coffee cravings of post-sea swimmers, boardwalk strollers, and parents in need of a caffeine hit!
Kinsale’s loss in Youghal’s gain as Julie and John Finn have acquired the long-standing and respected Ahern’s Townhouse which has operated in the town for a century. The seafood-focused restaurant, and long-time member of Ireland’s prestigious Blue Book of historic properties, will enter a new chapter with Finn’s signature farm to fork meats taking their place beside lobster and hake. Opening from June-ish.
Myrtle Grove House was the estate of Sir Walter Raleigh, favourite of Elizabeth I, and, so legend goes, where the first potatoes were planted in Ireland after presenting them to Elizabeth at court from the New World. While the house is in decline, it is worth a ramble around the estate, located behind St Mary’s Collegiate Church of Ireland. After, slide into The Walter Bar at The Walter Raleigh Hotel for a bite to eat (with spuds on the side of course), and take in views of Green Park, the easternmost point of Cork.
Ballycotton is to Cork what Padstow is to Cornwall: quaint, clinging to its coastal edge, packed with salty sea dogs, creamy pints and tasty fayre. The picturesque harbour is guarded by Ballycotton Lighthouse, one of only two black painted lighthouses in Ireland, and has a fine cliff walk. Fish is always on the menu here, served virtually straight off the boat.
In the ownership of Flynn-Cush Hospitality Group, The Salty Dog took over from Cush which relocated to Midleton (see later), and shifted focus to good hearty pub grub. Fish continues to be well represented on the menu – why wouldn’t it when it’s landed meters from the front door. Picture windows in the restaurant area overlooks the harbour, while the cosy pub is the place to hunker down for any pint in a storm.
Housed inside a former church, this impressive venue has garnered a reputation as one of the best for music and comedy attracting stellar acts. With a popular restaurant and a fully licensed bar on site, it provides a one-stop shop for a great night out all under one roof.
Trawler Boyz at The Blackbird: The Blackbird alone is worth a stop for its cozy nooks and welcoming atmosphere. A covered sunny courtyard that’s pet-friendly is the place to be when the weather can’t be bate; then to top it all off, The Trawlerboyz operate in The Field Kitchen serving fresh fish favourites that frequently sell out long before closing time.
Famous for being the last port of call for the Titanic, and home to the original White Star Line drawing offices, Cobh draw visitors for its iconic skyline of multi-coloured houses and the imposing figure of St Colman’s Cathedral, its Victorian-era promenade, boats to Spike Island, and great café culture.
Home to Ireland’s last remaining wooden smokehouse, Frank Hederman has been smoking wild fish for decades with a renowned global reputation for quality and taste. Visits to their Belvelly Smokehouse are available (advance booking required), with Meet the Producer lunches a particular speciality.
Cobh has a vibrant and delicious array of wonderful cafes dotted along the pretty promenade. Seasalt Café was a pioneer in this regard, with Ballymaloe alumni Jacquie O'Dea, at the helm; and the café at Cobh Heritage Centre located in a Victorian railway station is an atmospheric setting for a swift cup of Barry’s. Mediterranean vibes abound at cute coffee bar, The Arch; or for something quite different, swing by new luxe dessert experience Bloom & Brew Café with its Instagrammers dream interior and way-out-east desserts.
The name Ballymaloe carries such weight of reputation even those who have never visited Ireland know of its continuing legacy of good food.
Ballymaloe itself sprawls over 100 acres. The demesne includes Ballymaloe House which encompasses the hotel and restaurant where Myrtle Allen first created the identity of modern Irish food rooted in traditional ingredients; a shop and café, and The Grainstore events centre. Twice a year, it also hosts the Ballymaloe Festival of Food (May) and Ballymaloe Craft Festival (November).
Down the road is Ballymaloe Cookery School founded by Darina Allen and Rory O’Connell. The school encompasses farmland, orchards, vegetable production and an acre of glasshouses; a dairy, hens, and piggery, all of which serve the school. In recent years, the educational offering has expanded to include the Ballymaloe Organic Farm School, taking the learning right back to where all food begins – the soil.
Year round, the Ballymaloe campus offers an eclectic mix of events, workshops and courses in everything from planting an orchard to wine appreciation, butter making, cookery skills and festivals exemplifying all the ways food can be enjoyed, appreciated and considered.
This vibrant town offers many delicious reasons to visit as it continues to evolve its unique food story.
The reimagined distillery experience at this storied site is always worth a visit and keep returning. Standard tours give the Irish whiskey novice a great grounding in the story of the whiskey brands created among the old stone buildings of this 15 acre site, including Jameson, Red Breast, Old Spot, and Method & Madness. Go the extra mile with Behind The Scenes and Apprentice experiences for an in depth and engaging look at the distilling process from grain to glass, while Whiskey Tasting and Cocktail Experiences lean into the sensory and fun sides of Ireland Uisce Beatha.
Famous for being the first market to hasten in a renaissance of Ireland’s farmers’ market tradition, Midleton market has run every Saturday morning (9am -1:30pm) since 2000. Connecting local food producers, artisans, growers and chefs with a local community passionate about supporting local, it remains Cork’s largest and best attended farmers’ markets and is not to be missed.
Running over three days in early September, fEast Cork celebrates the very best of the region through dining experiences, tastings, markets, cookery demonstrations, workshops, tours and talks. This years’ festival runs 5-7th September with full details at www.feastcork.ie.
Founder and farmer, Conor McCauley, is busy working up a summer schedule on his 3-acre certified organic farm just outside Midleton in Ballyedmond that includes Farm2Fork dining experiences on 26th July and 5th September for fEast Cork with all local chefs and produce. Gather under the pergola for outdoor yoga and Pilates classes which may move to the orchard when the sun makes an appearance. Sign up to their newsletter at www.yellowbellyfarm.com for first dibs on events.
There’s no shortage of great places to eat all along Midleton High Street. Ferrit & Lee, housed inside a gorgeous limestone building a stones’ throw from Midleton Distillery, have been flying the flag for great food since 2017. CUSH combines a sophisticated setting with high end casual dining. Roots is the place to go for fresh hand thrown pizza and great value wines by the glass, while Bó Burger are renowned for flippin’ great burgers in a funky setting. Bitesize Café’s OG Midleton venue is the place to go for your sweet treat fix.
It’s hard sometimes to differentiate Castlemartyr – the place, from Castlemartyr – the resort, but either way no visit to East Cork is complete without a stop in one, the other, or indeed, both.
Terre, the two Michelin-starred restaurant located within the five-star Castlemartyr resort, is a jewel in East Cork’s crown. Now under the leadership of British chef, Lewis Barker, and with a stellar team of ambitious and talented chefs, the cuisine of Terre is one inspired by land and sea surrounding Cork combined with the best of Irish and further afield. It’s an experience and a half; diners are guided through a tasting journey of multiple courses with many dishes finished table-side, and exceptional wines to pair.
I’m a long time fan of great restaurants in even better garden centres, and the offering at Carewswood Garden Centre is one of the best in Cork. Housed inside a large Victorian-style glasshouse with a terrace overlooking a jungle of plants and shrubs, food is homely, inspired by local tastes, and very delicious!
More a hall of unending temptation that your average high street grocer, this food emporium overflows with the very best of seasonal and local fresh produce, artisan and speciality foods, and a fresh cake and deli counter to die for. It even has the reputation of being Ballymaloe Cookery Schools: “trusted supplier of fresh fruit and vegetables.” Praise indeed.
