A tale of two trails: Cycle routes to bring you closer to nature
Dan McCarthy approaching Cappoquin, Co Waterford with the Knockmealdown Mountains in the background.
This terrific cycle takes the rider on back roads from the busy town of Bandon along riparian avenues, beautiful villages and beaches and on to the striking and unforgettable peninsula of the Old Head of Kinsale.
We start in Bandon on the bypass to West Cork. There is plenty of parking hereabouts. Heading back towards the Glasslyn Road roundabout (the main roundabout on Bandon to Cork road) we swing right onto Distillery Road for 300 metres before turning sharp left and then right on to the Old Mill Road (both marked on Google maps).
This is a beautiful, quiet road beloved of walkers and joggers, running alongside a tributary of the Bandon River through woodland and farmland. The road rises gently for a few kilometres before descending for a few more towards a T-junction. Here, take a tiny detour to the left and quick right to Kilmacsimon Quay to take in a quite magnificent sweep of the Bandon River, with heron and egrets among the birds you can spot. Oftentimes, the Kilmacsimon Rowing Club can be seen expertly slicing their way through the river on a training exercise. An idyllic spot.
Back to the T-junction and we continue on a curved road towards the village of Ballinadee. Again, the road rises, this time a little steeper, before falling fast into the delightful village of Ballinadee. We now ascend on a hard(ish) climb for a few kilometres to Kilgobbin Cross, where we follow the L323 for just 400m before going right at a fork in the road. This carries us downhill to the thriving village of Ballinspittle.
We turn right and then a quick left to bring us to the beaches at Garretstown and Garrylucas, to admire the bravery of the windsurfers and the derring-do of the kitesurfers. We pass the two beaches and very soon pull right to begin the climb to the Old Head of Kinsale (signposted). This is a tough old pull, no doubt about it, but soon, after a bit of huffing and puffing we are rewarded by a glorious vista out into the Atlantic.
Stop for a break and admire the views, which include a tower house and the museum in a former Napoleonic-era watchtower. There is a memorial to the Lusitania passenger liner which was sunk by a German U-boat in 1915 with the loss of 1,198 lives. The ship was torpedoed about 11 nautical miles from the Old Head.
There are a couple of coffee stops in the vicinity of the Old Head, so once refuelled, it’s back on the bike for the return leg to Bandon. At the Speckled Door pub, we swing left back towards Garrylucas Beach and on to Garretstown.
Following the signs for Ballinspittle, we pedal on for 2km and on entering the village, take a sharp left on Ballycateen Terrace. This is a minor road and a fairly tough climb through farmland and rolling hills, but it demonstrates that it’s not just the coast that offers us fabulous views. Hidden valleys and woods and the gorgeous arcs of the fields are simple reminders of the treasures of the countryside.
After 2.5km we swing right onto the L7289 and soon arrive at Crois na Leanbh, a famous War of Independence site.
Continuing northwards on the L7285 we drop down a very steep hill – make sure your brakes are in good order! The opposite climb is not too bad and in no time, we gain the next summit. Now we take a sharp left on the L2047 for the final run into Bandon. The terrain between the Old Head and Bandon and further inland is of constantly rolling hills and unless you are cycling laterally, most south/north or north/south roads will entail constant uphills and downhills. But think of how fit you will get!
- Start: Bandon, Co Cork.
- Distance: 50km
- Elevation: 704m
- Difficulty: Moderate (for the regular cyclist).
- Essentials: Food and water. Pump and spare tube
For many casual cyclists the Blackwater Valley northwards from Youghal offers some of the best cycling in the country: quiet country roads, long straight sections, challenging hills and astounding views. It is but a taste of what the stellar county of Waterford has to offer.
We start at the Youghal Bridge outside the town, on the road to Dungarvan. It is a misconception that this bridge is the border between counties Cork and Waterford. That border is 300m further back at the Tohrig River. Just after JJ’s truckstop, heading towards Dungarvan, we turn left before the bridge on the L2004. This glorious riverbank road winds through the woods in a natural paradise. Soon we catch a glimpse of Ballynatray House on the banks of the river, which was one of the filming locations for Stanley Kubrick’s Barry Lyndon.
The road begins to climb soon through the woods on a steady gradient and after a couple of kilometres levels out. Below the road to the left is Glendine Church, which must be one of the most unusually located churches in the country. We stay on the road signposted for Cappoquin and very soon are charging down a valley with the wind in our sails. Soon we cross the River Bride, a tributary of the Blackwater, at Camphire Bridge, where there is a lovely thatched-roof house. (There is a beautiful riverbank walk to the right here along the river Bride, but that’s for another day).
At this point for a short section, we caress the shores of the mighty Blackwater itself, once regarded as the Rhine of Ireland. High on the opposite bank we see the period mansion of Dromana House so close to the edge one fears it might topple in. Bearing northwards all the while, we soon arrive at the beautiful town of Cappoquin, nestled under the Knockmealdown Mountains. As we arrive there is the sight of the old railway bridge, sadly no longer in use. But who knows - if greenways can have a renaissance, why not the railways?
We grab a coffee and a cake in Cappoquin before resuming our homeward leg. Head south from the town parallel to the river on the Dromana Road, the L6066. After a couple of kilometres, we arrive at a small river and the extraordinary sight of Dromana Gate and its copper onion dome.
This tower bridge designed in the Hindu style was a wedding gift to a member of the Villiers-Stuart family in 1830. It is built on the Finisk River, another Blackwater tributary. The river was the scene of the last private battle in Ireland in 1565 when the Earl of Desmond was defeated by the Earl of Ormonde. About 300 people died in the battle. It is extraordinary to imagine that savagery amid the tranquil setting of today, but such is history.
We pass through the gate and continue onwards through lovely woods with regular glimpses of the river. Shortly we pass through Villierstown, home to Ireland’s Olympian John Treacy, who won a silver medal at the LA games in 1984. It is worth making a quick diversion to the right for 2km to see the Blackwater as it sweeps elegantly and relentlessly to the sea. Kayaks can be rented there in the summer for further exploration.
We wend our way ever southwards and pass through the next village, Aglish. Looking for the signs for Clashmore we proceed with extra caution alongside the traffic on this busier road. Once in the village of Clashmore, we cross the small bridge over the Gleanogle River, looking upstream (to the left) to a unique example of a now-disused distillery whose chimney rests on an arched bridge.
Taking the next right we begin a quite steep climb past the GAA pitch, over the top and down into a lovely valley with a small bridge. Swinging right on to the L2029 we have two more tough hills before we come to overlook the Blackwater again at the point where it enters the sea at the bridge to Youghal. The views are simply magnificent with the slightly silver woods across the stream and the glimmering town of Youghal itself along the bay.
To finish, cycle downhill to join the busy Dungarvan to Cork road and cross the bridge (careful again with the traffic) to the starting point. And if you have a mind for it, go around again. Or at least another day. This is a special life-affirming cycle.
- Start: Youghal Bridge.
- Distance: 50km
- Elevation: 487m
- Difficulty: Moderate (for the regular cyclist).
- Essentials: Food and water. Pump and spare tube
