Kerry: Walking in footsteps of the Vikings

BAILE na nGall means the foreigners’ town, referring to a 9th century Viking settlement at Smerwick, a Norse name meaning the butter harbour.

With the pier behind us, we set off, keeping left on the road, between houses. The road divides; we keep left. To the right is the truncated peak of Reenconnell. We pass the mast of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta, a bungalow alongside.

The road is narrow, and difficult if there is a heavy traffic, but this is rare. As we walk, Binn Diarmada, northern most of the Three Sisters headlands, sweeps gracefully skyward beyond the mouth of Smerwick Harbour.