Elderflower Champagne
Where better to choose than Kevin and Réidín Aherne’s restaurant which over just a few short years has become known for its 12 Mile Ethos.
Kevin has carefully created close links with local producers and their photographs take pride of place on the walls of the restaurant. The menu reflected their produce and seven or eight joined us for dinner and spoke about their enterprises.
They included organic farmers Dan and Anne Aherne from Ballysimon who produce beef, chickens and eggs; James Stafford from Roche’s Point whose longhorn beef provided the main course for the Slow Food dinner; local butcher Frank Murphy whom so many of us depend on to slaughter our heritage meat breeds; retired Derek Taylor, who grows organic vegetables and herbs in quite a small way also near Roches Point in East Cork; Derek Hannon from Greenfield Farm who grows radishes and salad leaves; and fish smoker Bill Casey who smokes organic salmon in his smokehouse in Shanagarry; beekeeper Charlie Terry and his wife Bridie from Cloyne, who have produced raw honey for 25 years on their land near Midleton; and farmhouse cheesemaker Jane Murphy who produces the beautiful range of Ardsallagh goat cheeses on the family farm near Carrigtwohill.
They all spoke beautifully about their lifestyle choice and their product.
Pat Van de Bake from Slow Food Holland joined us and spoke about the vibrant Slow Food Youth Movement in the Netherlands and the growing interest in growing your own food and food issues. Also present were Martin and Noreen Conroy who rear pure bred Saddleback pigs on their small farm near Leamlara, process it all themselves and sell to an increasingly appreciative public at Midleton and Douglas Farmers Markets. Martin and Noreen’s son has now come into the business with them after an apprenticeship with renowned Massimo Spigaroli near Parma in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy.
Note: Tom & Jacinta Clancy rear free-range chickens and turkeys in their farm overlooking the sea in Ballycotton. Look out for them at Mahon Point on Thursdays and Douglas Farmers Market on Saturdays. Kevin was recently awarded the Best Chef in Cork accolade from the Restaurant Association of Ireland. His mission statement: “Our menu is based on our 12 mile ethos. We endeavour to create dishes showcasing what is produced, reared or grown within a 12 mile radius of the restaurant.” The Slow Food Producer’s dinner menu included 12 Mile Sharing Board; Scottish Highland Plate Sirloin, Neck, Rib and Shin; Rhubarb, Jelly, Meringue & Jersey Cream Ice Cream.
How fortunate is he to have so many excellent food producers close by and how fortunate are they to have this young talented chef to support them.
The hedgerows are brimming with elderflower blossoms and the tart green gooseberries are ready to pick, a marriage made in heaven so here are a few suggestions to use the early summer bounty.
This magical recipe transforms perfectly ordinary ingredients into a delicious sparkling drink. The children make it religiously every year and then share the bubbly with their friends.
560g (1¼lb) sugar
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
4.5L (8pints) water
Remove the peel from the lemon with a swivel top peeler.
Pick the elderflowers in full bloom. Put into a bowl with the lemon peel, lemon juice, sugar, vinegar and cold water.
Leave for 24 hours, and then strain into strong screw top bottles. Lay them on their sides in a cool place.
After two weeks it should be sparkling and ready to drink.
Despite the sparkle this drink is non-alcoholic. NOTE: The bottles need to be strong and well sealed; otherwise the elderflower champagne will pop its cork.
These are very easy to make, very crispy and once you’ve tasted one, you won’t be able to stop.
Pinch of salt
1 organic egg
150ml (5fl oz) lukewarm water
8–12 elderflower heads
Caster sugar
Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and drop in the egg. Using a whisk, bring in the flour gradually from the edges, slowly adding in the water at the same time. Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer to 180°C/350°F. Hold the flowers by the stalks and dip into the batter. Fry until golden brown in the hot oil. Drain on kitchen paper, toss in caster sugar and serve immediately with gooseberry and elderflower compote.
Green Gooseberry and Elderflower Compote
When the elderflowers come into bloom, then I know it’s time to pick green gooseberries. They feel as hard as hailstones, but for cooking it’s the perfect time. Enlist the help of little ones to top and tail the elderflowers.
2 or 3 elderflower heads
600ml (1 pint) cold water
450g (1lb) sugar
Tie the elderflower heads in a little square of muslin, put the bag in a stainless-steel or enamelled saucepan, add the sugar and cover with cold water.
Bring slowly to the boil and continue to boil for two minutes. Add the gooseberries and simmer just until the fruit bursts. Allow to get cold.
Serve in a pretty bowl and decorate with fresh elder-flowers.
200g (7oz/scant 1 cup) caster sugar
3 organic, free-range eggs
½ teaspoon salt
275g (9oz/generous 2 cups) self-raising flour
1 tbsp lemon zest
75ml (3fl oz) lemon juice
800-1.2kg (1lb 10oz – 2lb 12ozs) icing sugar
2 tbsp milk
75ml (3fl oz) elderflower cordial
1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Preheat the oven to 160C/325F/Gas Mark 3. Cream the very soft butter and sugar until almost white and fluffy. Add the eggs and salt and mix until fully incorporated. Add half the flour until just combined.
Add the zest, juice and milk and mix until combined. Finally add the remaining flour.
Scoop into paper lined muffin tins. Bake in the preheated oven for about 20 minutes.
Remove from the tin and set on a wire rack to cool completely. Meanwhile, make the icing.
To make the icing: Cream the soft butter on a low speed in a Kenwood using a k beater, add some sugar and gradually add the milk, elderflower cordial and lemon juice. Then add the remaining sugar. The speed must be kept slow so as to not incorporate too much air into the buttercream.
Beat for about 3 minutes to get to the proper texture and to allow the sugar to dissolve. If necessary add more icing sugar if needed. This varies with the air temperature and the acidity of the juices, etc. Ice each cup cake and decorate with a few elderflower if available.
Note: omit the salt if using salted butter.
There’s a once off opportunity to hear Craig Sams of Carbon Gold speak about the importance of biochar as a soil improver and its importance to the environment and the many opportunities it creates for farmers and food producers on Thursday, June 19, at 7pm at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. Tel: 021 4646785 or email slowfoodeastcork@gmail.com. www.carbongold.com
Drop in to Afternoon Tea at Harvey Nichols in Dublin on Tuesday, June 17, 3.30-5.30pm. Darina Allen will host Afternoon Tea at Itsa, showcasing some of her delicious recipes from 30 years at Ballymaloe Cookery School followed by a book signing. Tickets €45 – please email HarveyNichols@Itsa.ie to book tickets.
Just heard about a great little place to eat on the end of the Beara Peninsula. Rhonwen Lowes has opened a Bistro in Eyeries serving local artisan foods and freshly made breads. The rosemary bread and three hummus dips are a great success and the buffalo burger from the local buffalo herd is also a winner.
Check it out – www.eyeriesbistro.ie or tel: 027 74884.
Where do I get green gooseberries? The English Market in Cork or Rose Cottage Fruit Farm in Co Laois have a stall at the Midleton and Mahon Farmers Market. While you are there look out for beautiful fresh lobsters wrapped in seaweed from Michael Barrett 086 6000438, depending on the weather.
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